Crochet Lyceum: Crochet 101 – Class 6/6: Basic Finishing Techniques & Student Showcase!

Welcome to Week 6 of Crochet 101, the first CAL/class in the Crochet Lyceum with Underground Crafter series.

Visit this post for the full course outline.

Week 6: Basic Finishing Techniques & Student Showcase

This week, we will learn how to finish your work so it looks well made and see some of the projects and gauge swatches that our Student Showcase giveaway winners made!  Today’s agenda:

• Weaving in ends
• Blocking
• Taking care of your crocheted items
• Student Showcase giveaway winners!

Today’s post includes text and illustrations as well as project pictures.  I’m making some changes in my home office, so I didn’t make a video or photo tutorial.

Weaving in ends

You may have noticed that there are pieces of yarn, sometimes called yarn tails or ends, hanging off your work.  ”Weaving in ends” is the fancy technical term for hiding those yarn tails away while also preventing your finished project from unraveling.

There are three main ways that crocheters deal with yarn tails:

• Work over the yarn while crocheting. In this method, you lay the yarn tail over the row where you are working your stitches.  As you crochet, the new row is worked over these tails.  This doesn’t work well with openwork stitch patterns, or in the final row (when you have no more stitches to work into).
• Use a crochet hook to hide the ends. In this method, you use a smaller crochet hook than the one you used for your project.  With the smaller hook, pull the yarn tails inside of stitches so the tails aren’t visible.  This method can sometimes stretch your stitches or look sloppy.  I also find it very time consuming.
• Use a yarn needle to weave in the tails. In this method, you thread your yarn tail into a yarn needle (which has a larger “eye” and a blunt tip).  You weave the tails inside of the stitches you made so that they aren’t visible on either side.

Once you have worked most of your yarn tail in, using any of these three methods, you want to C A R E F U L L Y cut the yarn very close to your work.  That will allow the yarn to “hide” inside.

Some people tie knots, but knots leave little bumps which can be unsightly or causes a bit of friction in the wash.  These knots can become undone, and if you haven’t worked in the tails, there will be nothing to prevent your piece from unraveling.  (Yikes!)

Blocking

While blocking seems to be a way of life for knitters, most crocheters are less familiar with blocking.  I’ll admit that I didn’t really block until about a year ago, and I don’t always block.  But it is a great way of making minor adjustments to your work after it is finished, or to stretch pieces to shape or to size.

There are several methods of blocking, but I recommend spray blocking since it can be used with all types of fiber and doesn’t require much in the way of special equipment.

Surface: You can use a padded ironing board, a blocking board or blocking mat, or what I use, an interlocking foam child’s play mat.

Tools: In addition to the surface, you’ll need a spray bottle with water and pins.  I use the regular glass head pins that I have for sewing, but there are also specialized “blocking pins”(T-pins).

Now that you have a surface and your tools, pin your finished crochet piece (with the ends already woven in) onto the surface and into the final shape – to the length, width, and shape you’d like the final piece to be.  As you stretch your piece, spray it with water so that it becomes more pliable.  Pin frequently, so that you don’t have dips or batwing edges, but rather straight edges.  Once you have the piece in the shape you desire, spritz it a few more times to make sure it is thoroughly wet.  Allow the piece to dry.  Time will vary, depending on the humidity and the size of the piece.  Once it is dry, gently un-pin it, and it will keep the new shape.  (You may have to repeat this process after washing, depending on the yarn you used and how it was washed.)

Taking care of your crocheted items

Your ends are neatly woven in, your pieces are blocked, and now they are ready to enjoy!  But how do you keep your crocheted items looking good in the long run?

In addition to the labels, you have the handy chart from Class 1 about yarn characteristics.  When in doubt, hand wash and hand dry.

Machine washing: When I machine wash, I use a gentle cycle with cold water even if the yarn label recommends warm or hot water.  I use a minimal amount of detergent and wash crocheted items without other knits, towels, or anything likely to cause pilling.  I also avoid bras or anything with clasps which might snag on my work in the turbulent world of the washing machine.   In fact, I generally wash my crocheted items only with jeans, which seam to be pretty friendly to yarncrafted items.

Machine drying: If the label allows for machine washing, it often helps to check mid-cycle.  Artificial fibers tend to dry very quickly, and can develop a burning or chemical smell if left in the dryer for too long.  Natural fibers can be sensitive to the high heat of the dryer, so removing them promptly never hurts.  I tend to be cautious and dry using the delicate cycle.

Dry clean: I have never dry cleaned anything handmade, although I see care labels recommend “dry clean only.”  I hand wash instead.

Hand washing: I generally avoid hand washing like the plague .  However, I’m willing to make sacrifices for my crochet!  When hand washing, use cold or lukewarm water and a mild detergent designed for hand washing laundry.  My grandmother usually used “brown soap” (that very hard laundry bar) to wash her handmade items.

Hand drying: Be thoughtful about this to avoid stretching.  If you are hand washing, place the clean, wet crocheted item in a towel and press out the water.  Don’t wring your creations or you can stretch and distort the yarn.  If you are machine washing, the crocheted item will usually have most of the water removed in the spin cycle so it is ready to dry flat.  Garments and other precisely shaped items should be dried flat on a towel or other soft surface to avoid stretching and “rack marks.”

A final word – I’m always conservative with my washing choices.  I’d rather spend a bit more time caring for my crochet item than cause it to shrink, pill, stretch, or tear.  Think about all of the hard work you put into it before carelessly tossing it into the machine!  Remember that when you combine multiple yarns in one project, you should follow the most restrictive care instructions.

When giving a crocheted gift, I always include a care label with the instructions listed so the recipient can get the most use out of the gift.

Storage: Make sure anything you’ve crocheted is completely dry before storing.  Although many people use plastic bags, these bags give my crocheted creations an odd smell over time.  When possible, I store my crocheted creations in a closet shelf or drawer with cedar balls to protect from moths and odors.  I also store in luggage, canvas bags, or plastic tubs with cedar balls.

Student Showcase

Thanks to everyone who has been following along with some or part of Crochet 101.  It has been fun.  According to random.org, our giveaway winners are:

Anamoji from Ravelry!

Trenody85 from Ravelry, a fellow Year of Projects blogger (from A Self-Sufficient Life for Me)!

Anamoji gets to pick first, and then Trenody85 gets to pick from the remaining prizes.  We have five prize options:

Yarn (4 prizes):

• 1 hank of Spud and Chloe Sweater in Grass,
• 1 skein of Lion Brand Fishermen’s Wool in Oak Tweed,
• 1 skein each of Red Heart Super Saver in Buff and Coffee, or
• 5 skeins of Filatura Lanarota Rich Wool in Black.

Notions Kit:

• 3 sizes of crochet hooks, 1 set of yarn needles, and a gauge ruler.

Congratulations!  And thanks to everyone who followed along and commented here and on Ravelry. Happy crocheting!

Tags: a self-sufficient life for me, anamoji, basic finishing techniques, blocking, crochet, crochet 101, crochet lyceum, ravelry, student showcase, taking care of your crocheted items, trenody85, weaving in ends, winner