Mini Crochet Creatures by Lauren Bergstrom Book Review with Sloth amigurumi Pattern

Mini Crochet Creatures: 30 Amigurumi Animals to Make by Lauren Bergstrom via Underground CrafterDo you like to make quick, near-instant gratification crochet projects? Do you love adorable amigurumi? Then you’ll want to check out my review of a crochet pattern collection by Lauren Bergstrom, along with the excerpted crochet Sloth pattern!

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links. A free review copy of Mini Crochet Creatures: 30 Amigurumi Animals to Make by Lauren Bergstrom was provided to me by GMC Publications Ltd. Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.

Book Review

Mini Crochet Creatures: 30 Amigurumi Animals to Make by Lauren Bergstrom is a crochet pattern collection of 30 simple animals. Each project uses a simple base with embroidered, crocheted, and sewn felt details to add character. Most of the projects are about 2” (5 cm) tall, though a few are a little bit shorter. In her introduction, Lauren explains that besides the cuteness factor, you can also find practical purposes for these little crochet animals as pin cushions, garlands, or on a baby mobile.

Sloth, free crochet pattern by Lauren Bergstrom via Underground Crafter | 3 crocheted sloths facing cameraThe patterns are arranged into 6 groups, each with 5 patterns: Farm, Pet, Sea, Little, Woodland, and Zoo. Each pattern includes the size (along with an “actual size” image to show the correct scale), a list of yarn and supplies, and the pattern in both international stitch symbols and U.K. pattern abbreviations.

Sloth, free crochet pattern by Lauren Bergstrom via Underground Crafter | 1 crochet sloth in profileAfter the patterns, there are several learning sections. Tools and Materials shares information about all the different materials you would need to crochet these little critters and also includes a photograph of all the supplies for crochet newbies. Techniques includes written and illustrated instructions for holding the hook and the yarn, making a yarn over, magic adjustable ring, slip knot, foundation chain, crocheting in the front and back loop, and determining which is the right (outside) and wrong (inside) side of your project when crocheting in the round. There are also instructions for 3 basic crochet stitches (U.K. slip stitch, double crochet, half treble crochet) and a decrease (U.K. dc2tog). This section also includes lots of finishing tips, such as how to join, make embellishments, and more. The book ends with a key to the U.K. pattern abbreviations used in this book, along with a U.K. to U.S. conversion chart, and a hook size and yarn weight chart.

Sloth, free crochet pattern by Lauren Bergstrom via Underground Crafter | 3 crocheted sloths from aboveThe book is filled with absurdly cute full page pictures. Since each project is so small, there are several versions of each with slightly different colors and embellishments. Mini Crochet Creatures: 30 Amigurumi Animals to Make has some great eye candy! Flipping through the pages, I was inspired to dig through my yarn scraps and get started. Every project is small enough to be finished quickly, even by a relative beginner. If you like to make cute projects, or fast projects, or stash buster projects, I think you will really enjoy this book. And, of course, if you know a child or teen who would be delighted by these little characters, you’ll be even more inspired to get crocheting.


Sloth

Crochet Pattern by Lauren Bergstrom

Published in Mini Crochet Creatures: 30 Amigurumi Animals to Make

Pattern Text, Charts, and Photos © 2018 Lauren Bergstrom and © 2018 GMC Publications Ltd. Shared with permission from GMC Publications Ltd.

Sloth, free crochet pattern by Lauren Bergstrom via Underground Crafter | 3 crocheted slothsNotes from Underground Crafter:

  • This pattern uses U.K. pattern abbreviations. The Craft Yarn Council has a full list of abbreviations here, including a conversion from U.S. terms.
  • This pattern uses U.K. dc2tog (U.S. sc2tog) as the decrease. New Stitch a Day has a helpful video tutorial for this stitch here.
  • You can find helpful magic adjustable ring tutorials by Oombawka Design here (photo tutorial) and here (video tutorial).

An amigurumi sloth has a plump body and long crocheted limbs. The position of the arms and legs can be changed to give it different poses. A sloth face is made by sewing felt shapes onto the body, with an embroidered nose and mouth. This sloth is one of the calmest amigurumi creatures.

You will need

  • Medium-weight yarn in brown – approx 22yd (20m)
  • Crochet hook – 3.5mm (UK9:USE/4)
  • Toy stuffing
  • Yarn needle
  • Craft felt in off-white and dark brown
  • Embroidery needle
  • Embroidery thread in off-white, dark brown and black

Size

  • Using the suggested yarn and hook, your sloth’s body will be about 2in (5cm) tall.

Sloth, free crochet pattern by Lauren Bergstrom via Underground Crafter | 1 crocheted sloth front viewBody

  • The sloth’s body is crocheted from top to bottom. Work in the round, without joining rounds. Using brown yarn, start with an adjustable ring.
  • 1 6 dc into ring.
  • 2 2 dc in each st around (12 dc).
  • 3 (2 dc in next st, dc in next st) 6 times (18 dc).
  • 4 (2 dc in next st, dc in next 5 sts) 3 times (21 dc).
  • 5–6 Dc in each st around, for 2 rounds (21 dc per round).
  • 7 (2 dc in next st, dc in next 6 sts) 3 times (24 dc).
  • 8–12 Dc in each st around, for 5 rounds (24 dc per round).
  • 13 (Dc2tog) 12 times (12 sts).
  • Stuff the body, making it nice and puffy.
  • 14 (Dc2tog) 6 times (6 sts).
  • Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing, and finish off. Add a little more stuffing if necessary, then sew the hole closed.

Arms and legs

  • (make 4)
  • Using brown yarn, ch 7.
  • 1 Htr in 2nd ch from hook, htr in next 5 ch (6 htr).
  • Cut yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing, and finish off.

Sloth, free crochet pattern by Lauren Bergstrom via Underground Crafter | chart key Sloth, free crochet pattern by Lauren Bergstrom via Underground Crafter | crochet chartsFinishing

  • Using the templates, cut one off-white face and two dark brown eye shapes out of felt.
  • With off-white thread, sew the face shape onto your sloth’s head, in line with rounds 4 to 7 of the body. Use dark brown thread to sew the eye shapes onto the face.
  • With black thread, embroider a mouth and nose, using small, straight sts. Embroider some eyes onto the felt eye shapes. Sew the two arms in place, in line with rounds 8 and 9 of the body. Sew the two legs in line with rounds 11 and 12 of the body.

If you enjoyed this pattern, follow my Amigurumi – Crochet Pinterest Board for more inspiration!

Animal Heads by Vanessa Mooncie Book Review with Zebra amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head Pattern

Animal Heads by Vanessa Mooncie cover via Underground CrafterIf you love to crochet quirky home decor projects, then you’re going to want to check out my review of a fun crochet pattern collection by Vanessa Mooncie. My review also includes an excerpted crochet pattern for a Zebra amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head, so read on for details!

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links. A free review copy of Animal Heads: Trophy Heads to Crochet by Vanessa Mooncie was provided to me by GMC Publications. Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.

Book Review

Animal Heads: Trophy Heads to Crochet by Vanessa Mooncie is a crochet book including ten life-sized patterns for amigurumi faux taxidermy heads.

The book opens with an introduction by Vanessa and then includes a gallery with a full page picture of each project mounted on a wall. The book then moves on to the patterns. Each pattern includes:

  • A materials list with yarn, hooks, and notions required;
  • The size (final measurements;
  • The tension (gauge);
  • A key to all international stitch symbols used in the pattern;
  • The method, which explains the construction process;
  • A written pattern using U.K. pattern abbreviations;
  • A charted pattern using international stitch symbols;
  • Instructions for making up (assembly) of the finished trophy head; and
  • Multiple pictures of the finished trophy head.

Patterns are included for a mouse, a hare, a fox, a ram, a swan, a lion, a stag, a bull, a black bear, and a zebra.

After the patterns, Getting Started includes information about hooks, notions, yarn substitutions, reading charts, and measuring gauge. Crochet Stitches includes written and illustrated instructions for making a slip knot, holding the crochet hook, forming a magic ring, seven basic stitches (UK chain, slip stitch, double crochet, half treble crochet, treble crochet, double treble, triple treble), increasing and decreasing, crocheting in the front and back loop, and changing colors. Finishing Touches provide instructions for stuffing, seaming, embellishing with basic embroidery stitches, using nylon thread for whiskers, and mounting. Caring for Your Animal Heads gives helpful tips for keeping these clean as they can’t be machine washed like other crochet projects (because of the mounting). The book ends with a glossary of crochet abbreviations, including a UK/US conversion chart, and a list of suppliers for yarn, glue, embroidery thread and needles, stuffing (wadding), wire, cutting equipment, and mounting boards.

Animal Heads doesn’t list pattern difficulty levels, but the patterns use beginner-friendly stitches. The instructions are detailed as each trophy head looks relatively realistic, so there are multiple color changes, increases, and decreases for each project. In other words, a dedicated or patient beginner can tackle every project in the book, but a more experienced pattern reader may feel more confident. The designs are whimsical and would be great projects for the home or fun gifts to give. The book is a paperback but it has both front and back flaps which allow you to mark you place so you won’t get lost when working on a multi-part pattern. I loved the pattern in this book and also the design, which makes the projects inviting and shows off each project beautifully. If you like to crochet unique gifts, or make quirky home decor projects, you’ll love Animal Heads!


Zebra

Crochet Pattern by Vanessa Mooncie

Published in Animal Heads: Trophy Heads to Crochet

Pattern, Charts, and Photos © 2015 GMC Publications, Ltd. Shared with permission from GMC Publications, Ltd.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - zebra mounted on wallNotes from Underground Crafter:

  • This pattern uses U.K. pattern abbreviations. The Craft Yarn Council has a full list of abbreviations, including the differences between U.S. and U.K. terms, here.
  • New Stitch a Day has a helpful video tutorial for the dc2dec stitch used in this pattern (a decrease that is also known as sc2tog in U.S. abbreviations). You can find the tutorial here.
  • This pattern also uses international stitch symbol charts. You can find a key to those symbols from the book below.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - keyThe direction of the zebra’s stripes is determined by the shaping of the head, crocheted in rounds and short rows. The mane is made by attaching tassels to the stitches and brushing through the yarn to tangle the fibres and help it stand on end.

Materials

  • Wendy Mode Chunky, 50% wool, 50% acrylic (153yd/140m per 100g ball), or any chunky yarn:
    • 3 x 100g balls in 202 Vanilla (A)
    • 4 x 100g balls in 220 Coal (B)
  • Wendy Serenity Super Chunky, 10% alpaca, 20% wool, 70% acrylic (87yd/80m per 100g ball):
    • 1 x 100g ball in 1712 Jet (C)
    • 1 x 100g ball in 1701 Chalk (D)
  • Oddments of DK yarn in brown (E) and black (F)
  • 3mm (UK11:US-) and 4.5mm (UK7:US7) crochet hooks
  • Blunt-ended tapestry needle
  • Toy stuffing
  • 2 circles of mount board, measuring 12 1⁄4in (31cm) in diameter, for the base
  • 2 pieces of mount board, measuring 23⁄8 x 63⁄4in (6 x 17cm), for the ears, with one short end of each cut to form a pointed arch shape
  • Stranded embroidery thread in black
  • Embroidery needle
  • 0.75in (2cm) brass curtain or roman blind ring
  • Hairbrush and watered-down PVA glue in a trigger-spray bottle (optional)

Size

  • Approximately 23in (58cm) from the tip of the nose to the base

Tension (Gauge)

  • 14 sts and 15 rows to 4in (10cm) over double crochet using 4.5mm hook

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - zebra on wall white backgroundMethod

  • The head is started in rounds of double crochet, beginning at the nose end. The curved stripes at the front of the face are formed by working short rows, starting with a small number of stitches and working into an extra stitch at each end of every row. The stitches are increased in the centre of each row to keep the shape of the face straight, up to the centre of the head. The gap left between the rows, at the top of the face, is filled with short rows and then the head is continued in rounds. The top and back of the head and the front of the neck shaping are formed by crocheting short rows. This also changes the direction of the stripes. The base is made with two crocheted circles, joined together to form a pocket. Two circular pieces of mount board are slipped inside to keep the base rigid, before joining it to the stuffed head by crocheting into each stitch on both pieces at the same time. The vertical striped piece, going down the front of the face, is crocheted separately. It is worked in rows and shaped by increasing the stitches as well as working half treble and treble stitches. The ears are also worked in rows, increasing the stitches at the top to form the pointed shape. They are each made in two pieces, joined and stuffed lightly, with the addition of a folded mount board inserted inside to provide extra shaping, and to keep them firm. The eyes are worked in rounds and the eyelids made by crocheting short rows. The horizontal pupils are embroidered on. The mouth is made in rounds of double crochet. The top of the top lip is shaped by crocheting short rows. Nostrils, made in two pieces joined together, are stitched on to the top lip. The vertical striped piece and the rest of the zebra’s features are sewn to the head. A brass ring is crocheted around to cover it and then it is stitched to the back of the head so it can be mounted on the wall. Finally, the mane, consisting of three rows of tassels, is made by hooking lengths of yarn to the stitches down the centre back of the head. The fibres of the yarn are matted together by brushing the tassels to help them stand upright. Diluted PVA glue can be sprayed over the mane to help keep it in shape.

Head

  • Starting at the front of the face, with 4.5mm hook and A, wind yarn around finger a couple of times to form a ring, insert hook into ring, catch yarn and draw through.
  • Round 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 6 dc into ring (6 sts).
  • Round 2 (inc): (Dc2inc) 6 times (12 sts). Pull tight on the short end of the yarn to close the ring.
  • Round 3 (inc): (Dc2inc, 1 dc) 6 times (18 sts).
  • Round 4 (inc): (Dc2inc, 2 dc) 6 times (24 sts).
  • Round 5 (inc): (Dc2inc, 3 dc) 6 times (30 sts).
  • Round 6 (inc): (Dc2inc, 4 dc) 6 times (36 sts).
  • Round 7 (inc): (Dc2inc, 5 dc) 6 times (42 sts).
  • Rounds 8-12: 1 dc in each dc
  • Round 13 (inc): (Dc2inc, 6 dc) 6 times (48 sts).

Front markings

  • Carry the unused yarn up the wrong side of the work.
  • The following is worked in rows:
  • Row 1 (RS): Work 1 dc into the next 6 dc, turn.
  • Row 2 (WS): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, turn.
  • Row 3 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 2 dc, turn (50 sts).
  • Row 4: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, turn.
  • Row 5 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, (4 dc, dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, turn (52 sts).
  • Row 6: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn.
  • Join in B.
  • Row 7 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 8 dc, turn (54 sts).
  • Row 8: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, turn.
  • Row 9 (inc): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 10 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, turn (56 sts).
  • Row 10: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 31 dc, turn.
  • Row 11 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 14 dc, turn (58 sts).
  • Row 12: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 37 dc, turn.
  • Row 13 (inc): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 16 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 17 dc, turn (60 sts).
  • Row 14: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 43 dc, turn.
  • Row 15 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 20 dc, turn (62 sts).
  • Row 16: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 49 dc, turn.
  • Row 17 (inc): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 22 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 23 dc, turn (64 sts).
  • Row 18: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 55 dc, turn.
  • Row 19 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 26 dc, turn (66 sts).
  • Row 20: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 61 dc, with A, work 1 dc in the next 4 dc, turn.
  • Fasten off B and continue in A.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - head front markings chartShape top of face

  • Row 1 (dec) (RS): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, dc2dec, turn (65 sts).
  • Row 2 (dec) (WS): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2dec, turn (64 sts).
  • Row 3 (dec): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, dc2dec, turn (63 sts).
  • Row 4 (dec): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 6 dc, dc2dec, turn (62 sts).
  • Row 5 (dec): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, dc2dec, turn (61 sts).
  • Row 6 (dec): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 8 dc, dc2dec, turn (60 sts).
  • Row 7: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, turn.
  • Row 8: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, turn.
  • Row 9: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 15 dc, turn.
  • Row 10: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 17 dc, turn.
  • Row 11: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn.
  • Row 12: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 21 dc, turn.
  • Row 13: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 23 dc, turn.
  • Row 14: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, turn.
  • Row 15: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 27 dc, turn.
  • Row 16: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 29 dc, turn. Join in B.
  • Row 17: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 31 dc, turn.
  • Row 18: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 33 dc, turn.
  • Row 19: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 59 dc, do not turn.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - shape top of face chart 1

  • The following is worked in rounds:
  • Round 1 (inc): (Dc2inc, 9 dc) 6 times (66 sts).
  • Fasten off A and B. Miss the first 20 dc and join B to the 21st dc with a sl st. The visible join at the start and end of each stripe will now be at the top of the face and eventually hidden beneath the vertical striped piece that will be stitched over the top.
  • Round 2: With B, work 1 dc into the same dc as the sl st, 1 dc in each of the next 65 dc.
  • Round 3: 1 dc in each dc. Join in A.
  • Round 4: With A, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 5 (inc): (Dc2inc, 10 dc) 6 times (72 sts).
  • Rounds 6–7: With B, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 8: With A, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 9 (inc): (Dc2inc, 11 dc) 6 times (78 sts).
  • Round 10: With B, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 11 (inc): (Dc2inc, 12 dc) 6 times (84 sts).
  • Round 12: With A, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 13 (inc): (Dc2inc, 13 dc) 6 times (90 sts).
  • Round 14: With B, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 15 (inc): (Dc2inc, 14 dc) 6 times (96 sts).
  • Rounds 16–17: With A, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Rounds 18–19: With B, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Rounds 20–21: With A, 1 dc in each dc.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - shape top of face chart 2Shape top of head

  • Carry the unused yarn up the wrong side of the work.
  • The following is worked in rows:
  • Row 1 (RS): With A, work 1 dc into the next 13 dc, turn.
  • Row 2 (WS): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, turn.
  • Row 3 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, turn (98 sts).
  • Row 4: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, turn.
  • Row 5 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 6 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, turn (100 sts).
  • Row 6: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn.
  • Row 7 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 9 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 10 dc, turn (102 sts).
  • Row 8: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, turn.
  • Row 9: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 27 dc, turn.
  • Row 10: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 29 dc, turn.
  • Row 11: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 31 dc, turn.
  • Row 12: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 33 dc, turn.
  • Row 13 (dec): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc n front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 33 dc, dc2dec, turn (101 sts).
  • Row 14 (dec): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 34 dc, dc2dec, turn (100 sts).
  • Row 15 (dec): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 35 dc, dc2dec, turn (99 sts).
  • Row 16 (dec): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 36 dc, dc2dec, turn (98 sts).
  • Row 17 (dec): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 37 dc, dc2dec, turn (97 sts).
  • Row 18 (dec): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 38 dc, dc2dec (96 sts).
  • Fasten off A and B.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - shape top of head chartShape back of head

  • With RS of top of head facing, miss the first 15 sts of the 40 dc worked on the previous row and join B to the 16th dc with a sl st.
  • Row 1 (RS): With B, work 1 dc into the same dc as the sl st, 1 dc in the next 9 dc, turn.
  • Row 2 (WS): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, turn.
  • Join in A.
  • Row 3: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, turn.
  • Row 4: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 15 dc, turn.
  • Row 5: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 17 dc, turn.
  • Row 6: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn.
  • Row 7: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 21 dc, turn.
  • Row 8: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 23 dc, turn.
  • Row 9: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, turn.
  • Row 10: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 27 dc, turn.
  • Row 11: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 29 dc, turn.
  • Row 12: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 31 dc, turn.
  • Row 13: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 33 dc, turn.
  • Row 14: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 35 dc, turn.
  • Row 15: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 37 dc, turn.
  • Row 16: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 39 dc, turn.
  • Row 17: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 41 dc, turn.
  • Row 18: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 43 dc, turn.
  • Row 19: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 45 dc, turn.
  • Row 20: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 47 dc, turn.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - shape back of head chart

  • Row 21: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 49 dc, turn.
  • Row 22: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 51 dc, turn.
  • Row 23: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 53 dc, turn.
  • Row 24: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 55 dc, turn.
  • Row 25: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 57 dc, turn.
  • Row 26: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 59 dc, turn.
  • Row 27: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 61 dc, turn.
  • Row 28: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 63 dc, turn.
  • Row 29: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 65 dc, turn.
  • Row 30: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 67 dc, turn.
  • Row 31: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 69 dc, turn.
  • Row 32: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 71 dc, turn.
  • Row 33: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 73 dc, turn.
  • Row 34: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 75 dc, turn.
  • Row 35: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 77 dc, turn.
  • Row 36: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 79 dc, turn.
  • Row 37: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 81 dc, turn.
  • Row 38: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 83 dc, turn.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - shape back of head chart 2

  • Row 39: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 85 dc, turn.
  • Row 40: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 87 dc, turn.
  • Row 41: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 89 dc, turn.
  • Row 42: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 95 dc, turn.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - shape front of neck chartShape front neck

  • Row 43: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, turn.
  • Row 44: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, turn.
  • Row 45 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, turn (98 sts).
  • Row 46: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, turn.
  • Row 47 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 6 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, turn (100 sts).
  • Row 48: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn.
  • Row 49 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 9 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 10 dc, turn (102 sts).
  • Row 50: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, turn.
  • Row 51 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 12 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, turn (104 sts).
  • Row 52: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 31 dc, turn.
  • Row 53 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 15 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 16 dc, turn (106 sts).
  • Row 54: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 37 dc, turn.
  • Row 55 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 18 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn (108 sts).
  • Row 56: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 43 dc, turn.
  • Row 57 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 21 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 22 dc, turn (110 sts).
  • Row 58: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 49 dc, turn.
  • Row 59 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, turn (112 sts).
  • Row 60: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 55 dc, turn.
  • Row 61 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 27 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 28 dc, turn (114 sts).
  • Row 62: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 61 dc, turn.
  • Row 63 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 30 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 31 dc, turn (116 sts).
  • Row 64: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 67 dc, turn.
  • Row 65 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 33 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 34 dc, turn (118 sts).
  • Row 66: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 73 dc, turn.
  • Row 67 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 36 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 37 dc, turn (120 sts).
  • Row 68: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 79 dc, turn.
  • Row 69: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 81 dc, turn.
  • Row 70: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 83 dc, turn.
  • Row 71: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 85 dc, turn.
  • Row 72: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 87 dc, turn.
  • Row 73: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 89 dc, turn.
  • Row 74: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 91 dc, turn.
  • Row 75: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 93 dc, do not turn.
  • The following is worked in rounds:
  • Rounds 1–2 (RS): Work 1 dc in the next 120 dc.
  • Fasten off. Stuff the head and neck firmly, up to just below the last round. Be careful not to overstuff the head, keeping it narrow at the front of the face. More stuffing will be added when the base is attached.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - shape front of neck chart 2Base

  • With 4.5mm hook and B, wind yarn around finger a couple of times to form a ring, insert hook into ring, catch yarn and draw through.
  • Rounds 1–11: Work Rounds 1–11 of head (66 sts).
  • Round 12 (inc): (Dc2inc, 10 dc) 6 times (72 sts).
  • Round 13 (inc): (Dc2inc, 11 dc) 6 times (78 sts).
  • Round 14 (inc): (Dc2inc, 12 dc) 6 times (84 sts).
  • Round 15 (inc): (Dc2inc, 13 dc) 6 times (90 sts).
  • Round 16 (inc): (Dc2inc, 14 dc) 6 times (96 sts).
  • Round 17 (inc): (Dc2inc, 15 dc) 6 times (102 sts).
  • Round 18 (inc): (Dc2inc, 16 dc) 6 times (108 sts).
  • Round 19 (inc): (Dc2inc, 17 dc) 6 times (114 sts).
  • Round 20 (inc): (Dc2inc, 18 dc) 6 times (120 sts).
  • Rounds 21–23: 1 dc in each dc. Fasten off.
  • Make one more piece to match the first. Do not fasten off at the end.

Join base pieces

  • Place the two base pieces with WS together. Work 1 dc in each of the next 90 dc of both pieces at the same time to join. Slip the two circular boards in between the pieces and continue to join the two, stretching the work over the board and crocheting into the remaining 30 dc of both pieces at the same time to close. Do not fasten off.

Join base to back of zebra

  • With the base facing up, work 1 dc in the first dc of the base and, at the same time, into a dc of the last round at the back of the zebra to join. Continue to work 1 dc into each of the next 99 dc, inserting the hook first into the base and then into the last round of the zebra. Add more stuffing before continuing, filling the neck firmly. Work 1 dc into the remaining 20 dc of each piece as before, adding extra stuffing, if necessary, before closing. Sl st to the next st and fasten off.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - base chartVertical face stripes

  • Carry the unused yarn across the lower edge of the work.
  • With 4.5mm hook and A, make 40 ch.
  • Row 1: 1 dc into second ch from hook, 1 dc into next 38 ch, turn (39 sts).
  • Join in B.
  • Row 2 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 38 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the reverse side of the 39 ch, turn (79 sts).
  • Row 3 (inc): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 dc, 1 tr in the next 3 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 dc, 1 dc in the next 6 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 6 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 dc, 1 tr in the next 3 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 dc, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (81 sts).
  • Row 4 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 3 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 3 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (83 sts).
  • Row 5 (inc): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next tr, tr3inc, 1 tr in the next tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 8 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 8 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next tr, tr3inc, 1 tr in the next tr, 1 htr in the next 3 tr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (89 sts).
  • Row 6 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 5 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 9 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 9 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 5 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (91 sts).
  • Row 7 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 5 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 10 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 10 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 5 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (93 sts).
  • Row 8 (inc): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 2 tr, tr3inc, 1 tr in the next 2 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 2 tr, tr3inc, 1 tr in the next 2 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (99 sts).
  • Row 9 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 7 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 12 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 12 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 7 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (101 sts).
  • Row 10 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 3 tr, tr3inc, 1 tr in the next 3 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 3 tr, tr3inc, 1 tr in the next 3 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (107 sts).
  • Row 11 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 dc in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 4 tr, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 4 tr, 1 dc in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 14 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 14 dc, 1 dc in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 4 tr, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 4 tr, 1 dc in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (113 sts).
  • Row 12 (inc): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 32 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 23 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 23 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 32 dc, turn (119 sts).
  • Fasten off, leaving a long length of A at the end.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - vertical face stripes chartMouth

Bottom lip

  • With 4.5mm hook and B, wind yarn around finger a couple of times to form a ring, insert hook into ring, catch yarn and draw through.
  • Round 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 6 dc into ring (6 sts).
  • Round 2 (inc): (Dc2inc) 6 times (12 sts). Pull tight on the short end of the yarn to close the ring.
  • Round 3 (inc): (Dc2inc, 1 dc) 6 times (18 sts).
  • Round 4 (inc): (Dc2inc, 2 dc) 6 times (24 sts).
  • Round 5: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 6 (inc): (Dc2inc, 3 dc) 6 times (30 sts).
  • Round 7 (inc): (Dc2inc, 4 dc) 6 times (36 sts).
  • Round 8 (inc): (Dc2inc, 5 dc) 6 times (42 sts).
  • Round 9 (inc): (Dc2inc, 6 dc) 6 times (48 sts).
  • Rounds 10–12: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Sl st to the next st and fasten off, leaving long length of yarn at the end.

Top lip

  • With 4.5mm hook and B, wind yarn around finger a couple of times to form a ring, insert hook into ring, catch yarn and draw through.
  • Rounds 1–11: Work Rounds 1–11 of head (66 sts).
  • Round 12 (inc): (Dc2inc, 10 dc) 6 times (72 sts).
  • Rounds 13–18: 1 dc in each dc.

Join top edges

  • Flatten the piece and work 1 dc into each of the 36 dc from both sides at the same time to join (36 sts).  Fasten off.

Shape top

  • Miss the first 15 sts of the 36 dc of the joined edges and rejoin B to the 16th dc with a sl st.
  • Row 1: Work 1 dc into the same dc as the sl st, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, turn.
  • Row 2: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, turn.
  • Row 3 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, (2 dc, dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, turn (38 sts).
  • Row 4: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, turn.
  • Row 5 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 2 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 6 dc, turn (40 sts).
  • Row 6: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn.
  • Row 7 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of first dc, 1 dc in next 8 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in next 2 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in next 9 dc, turn (42 sts).
  • Row 8: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, turn.
  • Row 9 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 2 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 12 dc, turn (44 sts).
  • Row 10: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 31 dc.
  • Sl st to the next st and fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn at the end.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - lip chartNostrils (make 2)

  • With 4.5mm hook and B, wind yarn around finger a couple of times to form a ring, insert hook into ring, catch yarn and draw through.
  • Round 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 6 dc into ring (6 sts).
  • Round 2 (inc): Make 4 ch, work 1 dc into the second ch from hook, 1 dc in the next 2 ch, (dc2inc) 6 times, 1 dc into the reverse side of the 3 ch (18 sts). Pull tight on the short end of the yarn to close the ring. Fasten off.

Opening

  • With 4.5mm hook and B, make 15 ch and sl st to the first ch to form a ring.
  • Next: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 18 dc into the ring.
  • Do not fasten off.

Join opening to nostril

  • Place the pieces together, with the opening on top. Join the two by crocheting 1 dc into each of the 18 dc of both pieces at the same time. Sl st to the first dc and fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn at the end.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - lip chart 2Eyes (make 2)

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - detail of eyeIris

  • With 3mm hook and E, wind yarn around finger a couple of times to form a ring, insert hook into ring, catch yarn and draw through.
  • Round 1 (RS): 1 ch (does not count as a stitch), 6 dc into ring (6 sts).
  • Round 2 (inc): (Dc2inc) 6 times (12 sts). Pull on the short end of yarn to close the ring.
  • Round 3 (inc): (Dc2inc, 1 dc) 6 times (18 sts).
  • Round 4 (inc): (Dc2inc, 2 dc) 6 times (24 sts).
  • Join in F.
  • Round 5: With F, work 1 dc in each dc.

Eye socket

  • Join and continue in B, keeping F at the front of the work.
  • Change to 4.5mm hook.
  • Round 6: With B, work 1 dc in the back loop only of each dc.

Eyelid

  • Round 7: 1 dc in the first 12 dc, work 1 dc in the front loop only (the loop nearest to you) of the next 12 dc (these 12 sts form the eyelid), sl st into the next dc, turn.
  • The following is worked in rows:
  • Row 1 (WS): 1 dc into each of the 12 dc of the eyelid, sl st into the next dc, turn.
  • Row 2 (RS): Sl st into each of the 12 dc of the eyelid, sl st into the same dc as the sl st on round 7, turn.

Finish socket

  • Join in A.
  • The following is worked in rounds:
  • Round 1 (inc) (WS): With A, (dc2inc, 3 dc) 3 times into the remaining back loops of round 6, behind the eyelid, 1 dc in the same dc as the sl st, 1 dc into the next 10 dc, 1 dc in the same dc as the next sl st (27 sts).
  • Round 2 (inc): (Dc2inc, 4 dc) 3 times, sl st to the next st (30 sts).
  • Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn at the end.

Finish eye

  • Next round: With 3mm hook and F, sl st into the front loops of the 24 dc of Round 5, sl st into the first st and fasten off.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - eye chartEars (make 2)

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - profile of zebraInner ear

  • With 4.5mm hook and A, make 20 ch.
  • Row 1 (WS): 1 dc into second ch from hook, 1 dc into next 17 ch, 3 dc into next ch, 1 dc down reverse side of the next 18 ch, turn (39 sts).
  • Row 2 (inc) (RS): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 19 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn (41 sts).
  • Row 3 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc2inc, 1 dc in the first 19 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, dc2inc, turn (45 sts).
  • Row 4 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 22 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 22 dc, turn (47 sts).
  • Row 5 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 23 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 23 dc, turn (49 sts).
  • Row 6 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (51 sts).
  • Row 7 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 25 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc (53 sts). Fasten off.

Outer ear

  • With 4.5mm hook and A, make 19 ch.
  • Row 1 (RS): 1 dc into second ch from hook, 1 dc into next 16 ch, 3 dc into next ch, 1 dc down reverse side of the next 17 ch, turn (37 sts).
  • Row 2 (inc) (WS): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 18 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 18 dc, turn (39 sts).
  • Row 3 (inc): As row 2 of inner ear.
  • Row 4 (inc): As row 3 of inner ear.
  • Row 5 (inc): As row 4 of inner ear.
  • Row 6 (inc): As row 5 of inner ear.
  • Row 7 (inc): 2 ch (to count as first htr), miss first dc, 1 htr in the next 13 dc, 1 dc in the next 10 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 10 dc, 1 htr in the next 14 dc, turn (51 sts).
  • Join in B.
  • Row 8 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 14 htr, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, 1 dc in the next 13 htr, 1 dc in the second of 2 ch (53 sts). Do not fasten off.

Join ear pieces

  • Place wrong sides of inner and outer ear together, with the inner ear facing up.
  • Next: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), inserting the hook under both loops of each stitch of the inner ear first, then the outer ear to join, work 1 dc in each of the next 26 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc into each of the next 26 dc (55 sts). Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn at the end.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - ear chartMaking up

Vertical face stripes

  • Position the stripes going down the centre of the head, aligning the pointed tip with the top of the first stripe in B at the top of the face shaping. Sew the piece neatly to the face, stitching all around the edges.

Mouth

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - detail of muzzle

  • Place the bottom lip off-centre, on the lower part of the front of the face, so the lower edge of the mouth covers the first stripe in B. Thread the length of yarn, left after fastening off, onto a needle and sew it in place, leaving an opening to stuff it before closing.
  • Place the top lip piece so it covers the last four rounds at the top of the bottom lip, and the shaped top of the lip covers the lower end of the vertical stripes. Stitch the top edge in place using the length of yarn left over after fastening off and sew down the outer edges that overhang the sides of the bottom lip.

Nostrils

  • Sew the nostrils in place on the top lip, positioning the top of each nostril around two rounds down, before the top of the lip shaping. Stitch all around the edges.

Eyes

  • With three strands of embroidery thread, embroider the horizontal pupil in satin stitch (see below for Satin Stitch tutorial). Position an eye to each side of the face, over the shaping on each side of the vertical stripes. With the length of yarn left after fastening off, sew all around the outer edges of the eyes, inserting a small amount of stuffing before closing the opening.

Ears

  • Lightly score a line down the centre of each piece of mount board cut for the ears and fold to shape it. Insert a strip of board into the centre of each crocheted ear, so the pointed arch is at the pointed tip of the ears. Add a thin layer of stuffing to the back of each ear, behind the board. With the length of yarn left after fastening off, sew together the lower edges. Bring the lower corners together to meet in the middle of the inner ear and stitch 5⁄8in (1.5cm) of each side together to shape. Sew each ear neatly to the head, behind the eyes, stitching all around the edges to attach them securely in place.

Hanging loop

  • With 3mm hook and B, work 18 dc around the brass ring. Sl st to the first dc. Follow the chart for the hanging loop below. Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn. Thread the length of yarn onto a needle and sew the lower edge of the ring securely to the top of the base.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - hanging loop chartMane

  • The mane is made with three rows of tassels that are threaded through the stitches. Follow the instructions to attach the tassels (below), using two 8in (20cm) lengths together. Starting at the first black stripe at the top of the head, between the ears, attach one tassel in C to each narrow stripe going down the centre back. Attach two tassels to the wider black stripe at the beginning of the back of head shaping. Attach one tassel to the first round of the last black stripe, in front of the hanging loop, to finish the first row.
  • On each side of the central line of tassels, attach a tassel in C to the next stitch on the black stripes only. Attach a tassel in D on each side of the central tassel, on each white stripe.
  • Lay the zebra on one side. Separate the outer row of tassels and, keeping one hand beneath the remaining two rows, use the hairbrush to brush through them both, from the knot up to the ends. Quite a bit of fluff will come out of the yarn, but the fibres will matt together and help the mane stand up. Lay the separated tassels back over the brushed rows and brush through them, with a hand beneath the mane, as before.
  • Turn the zebra onto the other side and brush through once more. The stripes will be quite soft and standing upright from the head.
  • The mane can be fixed, to help keep it in place, with a little watered-down PVA glue. Lay the zebra on its side. Spray one side at a time and allow to dry before spraying the other side of the mane. The mane can be brushed through again while the glue is still damp, but remember to rinse the brush out thoroughly before using on your own hair.
  • Trim the ends of the mane to neaten.
  • Weave in all the ends of yarn.

Satin Stitch

  • Work straight stitches side by side and close together across a shape. Take care to keep the stitches even and the edge neat. The finished result will look like satin.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - satin stitch illustrationTassels

  1. Fold two 9.5in (24cm) lengths of A in half to form a loop. Insert the crochet hook behind the post of the stitch and back out through to the front. Catch the looped yarn.
  2. Pull the loop a little way through, remove the hook and then thread the ends of the yarn back through the loop, pulling them tight. This completes one tassel.
  3. Miss 1 stitch and rep steps 1 and 2 to attach the yarn to the next st. Continue adding tassels to every alternate stitch to the end of the round. Miss the round of stitches above and attach more tassels to the next round in the same way, threading the yarn through a stitch so the tassel lies between the two below.
  4. Attach tassels, as before, to the alternate rows and stitches that shape the front of the chest. Continue onto the rounds at the neck and then thread more tassels onto the visible stitches of the rows shaping the back of the head, working around the horns and ears. On the final layer of fringe, attach a tassel to every stitch going under the chin and across the last row at the front of the head, between the horns, so there are no noticeable gaps.
  5. Trim the ends to neaten.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - tassels illustrationIf you enjoyed this pattern by Vanessa Mooncie and you also knit, check out my review of Monster Hats: 15 Scary Head Warmers to Knit with the knitting pattern for the Alien hat here.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | Alien hat flat lay

Monster Hats by Vanessa Mooncie Book Review with Alien hat Pattern

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | Monster Hats book coverIf you enjoy giving quirky gifts, the knitting pattern collection by Vanessa Mooncie that I’m reviewing today will be right up your alley! I’m also sharing an excerpted pattern for the unisex Alien hat from the book, so read on for details!

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links. A free review copy of Monster Hats: 15 Scary Head Warmers to Knit by Vanessa Mooncie was provided to me by GMC Publications. Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.

Book Review

Monster Hats: 15 Scary Head Warmers to Knit by Vanessa Mooncie is a fun, knitting pattern collection. All of the patterns are available in both child and adult sizes.

The book opens with an introduction from Vanessa, who took her inspiration from comic books and mythology. This is a very visual book, so the next 16 pages are pictures of the hats being worn by kids and teens who look to be having a lot of fun. The first section is Make the Monsters, which includes patterns for all 15 hats. Each pattern includes a detailed materials list, the completed project sizes, and the tension (gauge) used for the pattern. Within each pattern, there is a introduction to the monster, zany illustrations, and several large pictures of the hat being worn. Each pattern starts with “method,” which explains the construction, and ends with “making up,” which explains how to add various pieces to the finished hat.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | Alien hat on modelAfter the patterns, there is an Other Things You Need to Know chapter that includes:

  • Getting Started, with tips on sizing, tension (gauge), needles and notions, substituting yarn, and reading patterns and charts;
  • Knitting Basics. with written and illustrated instructions for the slip knot, 3 cast on methods, knit and purl stitches, knitting into the front or back loop, 3 types of increases, making loops (usually used for “hair”), casting off, and 4 seaming methods;
  • Finishing Touches, with written and illustrated instructions for twisted and striped cords, tassels, and 4 embroidery stitches;
  • Fleece Linings, with instructions and a template for making a fleece lining for your hats;
  • Knitted Linings, with detailed instructions for making knitted linings for each hat; and
  • Appendices for knitting needle sizes, pattern abbreviations, and a list of materials (yarn suppliers).

The book’s layout is just as unconventional as the patterns and it mixes illustrations, writing, and typed text to great effect. The book doesn’t list difficulty levels, but many of the hats could be successfully made by advanced beginners with patience. Several of the patterns are more suited to intermediate knitters. If you like knitting hats, and if you like making something different from the “typical” hat pattern, try out Monster Hats. I think you’ll like it!


Alien

Knitting Pattern by  Vanessa Mooncie

Published in Monster Hats: 15 Scary Head Warmers to Knit

Pattern and Photos © 2016 Vanessa Mooncie and GMC Publications Ltd. Shared with permission from GMC Publications Ltd.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | Alien hat flat layNotes from Underground Crafter:

  • This pattern uses Craft Yarn Council knitting abbreviations. A full list of abbreviations is available here.
  • Video tutorials the special stitches are linked below.
    • Kfb tutorial by Deramores is available here.
    • C4B tutorial by New Stitch a Day is available here.
    • C4F tutorial by New Stitch a Day is available here.
    • K2tog tutorial by Deramores is available here.
    • Psso tutorial by Very Pink Knits is available here.
    • K2togtbl tutorial by ChemKnits is available here.
  • One of the yarns used in this pattern has been discontinued. You can find a list of recommended substitutes for Wendy Serenity Chunky here.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | Alien hat on modelThis monster is out of this world, featuring a cable design down the centre of the head, and embroidered details to enhance the glistening gaze of the bug-eyed alien.

Materials

  • Wendy Serenity Chunky, 70% acrylic, 20% alpaca, 10% wool (87yd/80m per 100g ball): 1[1] ball in 3205 Oyster (A)
  • Wendy Supreme Luxury Cotton DK, 100% cotton (219yd/201m per 100g ball): 1[1] ball in 1949 Poppy Red (B)
  • Twilleys of Stamford Goldfingering, 80% viscose, 20% metalized polyester (109yd/100m per 25g ball): 1[1] ball in 38 Red (C)
  • Oddment of DK yarn in black (D)
  • 1 pair each of 4mm (UK8:US6), 6mm (UK4:US10) and 7mm (UK2:US10.5/11) knitting needles
  • Cable needle
  • Small amount of toy stuffing
  • 2 x 6in (15cm) long pipe cleaners
  • Blunt-ended tapestry needle

Sizes

  • To fit: child, up to 20in (51cm) head circumference [adult, up to 22in (56cm) head circumference]

Tension (Gauge)

  • 13 sts and 18 rows to 4in (10cm) over stocking stitch using 7mm needles and A. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

Special abbreviations

  • C4B: Sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, k2 from cable needle
  • C4F: Sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, k2, k2 from cable needle

Method

  • The hat is started with a wide rib. A cable design is worked in the centre of the main piece, knitted in stocking stitch. The shaping of the eyes is begun by slipping the first stitch and turning the work before the last stitch of each row, working one less stitch each time. The shaping is finished by knitting into one extra stitch at the end of each row, until all the stitches are back on the same needle. These are stuffed, stitched to the hat and finished with embroidery in duplicate stitch. The antennae are made from knitted strips covering pipe cleaners. These are topped with a knitted button. The lower ends of the antennae are stuffed to help them stand up on the hat. The nostrils are two duplicate stitches embroidered onto the rib of the hat.

Main section

  • With 6mm needles and A, cast on 59[63] sts.

Child size only

  • Row 1 (RS): K1, (p2, k3) to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
  • Row 2 (WS): P1, (k2, p3) to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
  • Rows 3–4: As rows 1–2.

Adult size only

  • Row 1 (RS): (K3, p2) to last 3 sts, k3.
  • Row 2 (WS): (P3, k2) to last 3 sts, p3.
  • Rows 3–4: As rows 1–2.

Both sizes

  • Change to 7mm needles.
  • Next row (RS) (inc): K4[6], (kfb, k9) 5 times, kfb, k4[6] (65[69] sts).
  • Next row: Purl.

Adult size only

  • Next row: Knit.
  • Next row: Purl.

Both sizes

  • Work in cable pattern as follows (see chart below):
  • Row 1: K27[29], p1, C4B, k1, C4F, p1, k27[29].
  • Row 2: P27[29], k1, p9, k1, p27[29].
  • Row 3: K27[29], p1, k9, p1, k27[29].
  • Row 4: As row 2.
  • Rows 5–16: Rep rows 1–4 3 more times.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | cbart with Alien hat on modelShape crown

  • Row 1 (RS) (dec): K2tog, k10[11], sl1, k2tog, psso, k10[11], k2tog, p1, C4B, k1, C4F, p1, k2togtbl, k10[11], sl1, k2tog, psso, k10[11], k2togtbl (57[61] sts).
  • Row 2 (WS): P23[25], k1, p9, k1, p23[25].
  • Row 3 (dec): K2tog, k8[9], sl1, k2tog, psso, k8[9], k2tog, p1, k9, p1, k2togtbl, k8[9], sl1, k2tog, psso, k8[9], k2togtbl (49[53] sts).
  • Row 4: P19[21], k1, p9, k1, p19[21].
  • Row 5 (dec): K2tog, k6[7], sl1, k2tog, psso, k6[7], k2tog, p1, C4B, k1, C4F, p1, k2togtbl, k6[7], sl1, k2tog, psso, k6[7], k2togtbl (41[45] sts).
  • Row 6: P15[17], k1, p9, k1, p15[17].
  • Row 7 (dec): K2tog, k4[5], sl1, k2tog, psso, k4[5], k2tog, p1, k9, p1, k2togtbl, k4[5], sl1, k2tog, psso, k4[5], k2togtbl (33[37] sts).
  • Row 8: P11[13], k1, p9, k1, p11[13].
  • Row 9 (dec): K2tog, k2[3], sl1, k2tog, psso, k2[3], k2tog, p1, C4B, k1, C4F, p1, k2togtbl, k2[3], sl1, k2tog, psso, k2[3], k2togtbl (25[29] sts).
  • Row 10: P7[9], k1, p9, k1, p7[9].
  • Row 11 (dec): K2tog, k0[1], sl1, k2tog, psso, k0[1], k2tog, p1, k9, p1, k2togtbl, k0[1], sl1, k2tog, psso, k0[1], k2togtbl (17[21] sts).

Adult size only

  • Row 12: P5, k1, p9, k1, p5.
  • Row 13 (dec): K2tog, k1, k2tog, p1, C4B, k1, C4F, p1, k2togtbl, k1, k2togtbl (17 sts).

Both sizes

  • Break yarn and thread through rem sts, draw up tight and fasten off.

Eyes (make 2)

  • Slip all stitches p-wise.

Shape eyelid

  • With 4mm needles and B, cast on 10[12] sts.
  • Row 1 (RS): Purl.
  • Row 2 (WS) (inc): Kfb k to last st, kfb (12[14] sts).
  • Row 3 (inc): Sl1, p to last st, sl1.
  • Row 4 (inc): As row 2 (14[16] sts).
  • Row 5: Purl.

Eyeball

  • Join and cont in B and C, used together.
  • Row 6 (WS): Sl1, p12[14], turn.
  • Row 7: Sl1, k11[13], turn.
  • Row 8: Sl1, p10[12], turn.
  • Row 9: Sl1, k9[11], turn.
  • Row 10: Sl1, p8[10], turn.
  • Row 11: Sl1, k7[9], turn.

Adult size only

  • Row 12: Sl1, p8, turn.
  • Row 13: Sl1, k7, turn.

Both sizes

  • Next row: Sl1, p7, pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ptog with the next st to prevent a hole appearing in the work, turn.
  • Next row: Sl1, k8, pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ktog with the next st, turn.
  • Next row: Sl1, p9, pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ptog with the next st, turn.

Adult size only

  • Next row: Sl1, k10, pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ktog with the next st, turn.
  • Next row: Sl1, p11, pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ptog with the next st, turn.

Both sizes

  • Shape lower edge of eye
  • Next row: Sl1, k10[12], change to yarn A, pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ktog with the next st, turn.
  • Cont with yarn A.
  • Next row: Sl1, p11[13], pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ptog with the next st, turn.
  • Next row: Sl1, p12[14], pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ptog with the next st, turn.
  • Cast off k-wise, leaving a long length of yarn A at the end.

Antennae (make 2)

  • With 4mm needles and A, cast on 12[15] sts.
  • Starting with a k row, work 5 rows in st st.
  • Cast off k-wise, leaving a long length of yarn at the end.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | Alien hat antenna detailAntennae tip

  • With 4mm needles and yarns B and C held together, cast on 7 sts.
  • Starting with a p row, work 11 rows in rev st st, finishing on a RS row. Cast off k-wise, leaving a long length of yarn B at the end.

Making up

  • Join the back seam with mattress stitch (see below for tutorial).

Eyes

  • Sew each eye in place at an angle, with the shaped eyelid at the top, positioning them just above the ribbing and overlapping the edges of the cable design. Stitch neatly around the edges, leaving an opening to insert the stuffing before closing. Use the duplicate stitch technique (see below for tutorial) and D to embroider a line up the central knit stitches of the eyes.

Nose

  • Embroider the nose in D, working one duplicate stitch for each nostril on the ribbing.

Antennae

  • Fold each pipe cleaner in half and twist the two halves together. Turn under the sharp edges and place one twisted pipe cleaner in the centre of the wrong side (purl side) of each knitted strip. Fold the strip around the pipe cleaner, bringing the long edges together. Use the length of yarn left after casting off to sew the edges together, encasing the pipe cleaner. Sew together the cast-on and cast-off edges of the tip of the antennae to form a tube. Gather the open edges at each end and work a few stitches through the centre, from one side to the other, to flatten the piece, forming a button shape. Stitch the knitted buttons to the top of the antennae. Use the end of a knitting needle to push a small amount of stuffing firmly into the first 3/4in (2cm) of the open end of each antenna. This will help them to stand upright when attached to the hat. Sew the antennae in place, halfway between the eyes and the top of the hat. Weave in all the yarn ends.

Lining

Fleece linings

Add a lining to your monster hat to make it even cosier. Choose a fabric with some stretch that feels soft to the touch, in a contrasting or a matching colour.

Fabric lining materials

  • 22 x 22in (56 x 56cm) [25 x 25in (63.5 x 63.5cm)] of stretch fabric, such as polar fleece or jersey
  • Matching thread
  • Needle
  • Dressmaking pins
  • Squared pattern paper
  • Pencil
  • Scissors

Method

  1. Scale the pattern template to size, transferring all the markings onto the paper. Cut out the pattern, following the continuous line. Seam allowances of 5⁄8in (1.5cm) are included in the pattern. Place the pattern on the folded fabric, ensuring that the fold indicated on the pattern is placed exactly on the fold of the fabric. Pin the pattern in position and cut out the fabric.
  2. Stitch the darts indicated on the pattern template. Cut to within 1⁄2in (1.25cm) of the point of the dart and press open. With right sides together, pin and stitch the main seam, allowing for a 5⁄8in (1.5cm) seam. Trim the seam and cut notches in the curve, taking care not to cut into the stitching.
  3. Turn under the hem and pin the lining to the inside of the hat, just above the knitted edging or the ribbing, with the main seam of the lining at the centre back of the hat. Ease the fabric evenly around the lower edge. Slip stitch in place by hand. Work a few stitches through the top of the crown into the knitted hat to keep the lining in place.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | adding fleece liningKey for both charts

  • 1 square = 3⁄8in (1cm)
  • 5⁄8in (2.5cm) seam allowance is included

CHART

  • Adult lining cut 1

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | adult's lining chart

  • Child lining cut 1

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | child's lining chart

  • Stitch main seam, trim seam and cut notches in the curve.
  • Stitch darts

Knitted linings

A knitted lining is a cosy alternative to the fleece lining. It can be worked in the same shade as the monster hat, or you can choose a contrast colour. As the earflap facings are worked into the knitted lining pattern, omit them where applicable from the pattern when knitting the hat. The lining is stitched in place after the features are added to the main part of the hat. If twisted cords are to be attached to the earflaps, the knitted lining should go in first.

Materials

  • Approximately 50g yarn for Pop-eyes; 100g yarn for other monster hats (A)
  • See chosen monster hat pattern for required needle sizes
  • Stitch holder
  • Blunt-ended tapestry needle

Sizes

  • To fit: child, up to 20in (51cm) head circumference [adult, up to 22in (56cm) head circumference]

Tension

  • See chosen monster hat pattern for required tension.

Method

The knitted lining is worked in the same yarn as the hat you are making: refer to the pattern for the yarn type, needles required and tension. The earflap facings are worked first, where applicable. The main part of the lining is then continued in stocking stitch. The back seam is joined and the lining slipped inside the hat and stitched in place. Then finish with twisted cords and tassels, if using.

Alien, Fluffball, Skull, Slug, Troll and Zombie

  • Using A and 8mm needles for Fluffball or 7mm needles for Alien, Skull, Slug, Troll and Zombie, cast on 61[65] sts.
  • Starting with a knit row, work in st st for 18[20] rows, ending with a WS row.

Shape crown

  • Row 1 (RS) (dec): K2tog, (k12[13], sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times, k12[13], k2tog (53[57] sts).
  • Row 2: Purl.
  • Row 3 (dec): K2tog, (k10[11], sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times, k10[11], k2tog (45[49] sts).
  • Row 4: Purl.
  • Row 5 (dec): K2tog, (k8[9], sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times, k8[9], k2tog (37[41] sts).
  • Row 6: Purl.
  • Row 7 (dec): K2tog, (k6[7], sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times, k6[7], k2tog (29[33] sts).
  • Row 8: Purl.
  • Row 9 (dec): K2tog, (k4[5], sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times, k4[5], k2tog (21[25] sts).
  • Row 10: Purl.
  • Row 11 (dec): K2tog, (k2[3], sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times, k2[3], k2tog (13[17] sts).

Adult size only

  • Row 12: Purl.
  • Row 13 (dec): K2tog, (k1, sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times, k1, k2tog (9 sts).

Both sizes

  • Break yarn and thread through rem sts, draw up tight and fasten off.

Making up

  • Join the back seam with mattress stitch (see below). With WS together, pin the lining in place inside the main part of the hat and slip stitch neatly around the lower edges. For the Alien, Blob, Fluffball, Skull, Troll and Zombie, slip stitch the lower edge of the lining to the first row of stocking stitch after the rib on the main part, or after the garter stitch edging if making the Slug. Work a few stitches into the top of the crown to stop the lining slipping.

Mattress stitch

  • The mattress stitch produces an invisible seam that is suitable for stocking stitch fabric. It produces a neat finish, ideal for joining the seam at the back of the hats.
  • Place the two edges to be joined side by side with the right sides of the work facing you. Insert the needle under the horizontal bar between the first two stitches on one side, then under the same bar on the other piece. Continue picking up the stitches and drawing the edges together, every few stitches, to join the seam.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | mattress stitch illustrationDuplicate stitch

  • Insert the needle from the back to the front of the work at the base of the ‘V’ formed by the knitted stitch that you want to embroider over. At the front of the work, insert your needle behind both arms of the stitch above it and pull the yarn through.Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | duplicate stitch illustration 1
  • Insert the needle back through the pointwhere it first emerged to cover the knitted stitch.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | duplicate stitch illustration 2

Book Review: Granny Squares Weekend by Emma Varnam with Excerpted Pattern for Panda Comforter (Lovey)

Granny Squares Weekend by Emma Varnam book review with pattern excerpt via Underground Crafter - book coverIn today’s Granny Square Month post, I’m sharing a review of a granny square pattern collection by Emma Varnam, along with an adorable crochet pattern for a panda lovey.

Granny Square Month 2018 on Underground Crafter ] 30 days of granny square patterns, inspiration, and giveaways!

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links. A free PDF review copy Granny Squares Weekend: 20 Quick and Easy Crochet Projects was provided to me by GMC Publications Ltd. Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.

Book Review

Granny Squares Weekend: 20 Quick and Easy Crochet Projects is the follow up to Emma Varnam’s Granny Squares Home (reviewed with the pattern excerpt for the Cuddly Lion and Panda here). I’m reviewing the UK version of the book, but a US version will be available on June 19, 2018 (and you can preorder it now on Amazon).

Emma opens the book with an introduction, saying

I cannot think of anything more delightful than a weekend spent curling up on the sofa with my yarn and hook, crocheting something cosy.

I certainly couldn’t agree more, and if you feel the same, you will probably find a lot to like in this collection of “patterns that are based around the classic granny square, but with a modern twist.” As the title suggests, all the patterns in the book are small enough to finish within a weekend.

After the introduction, there is a 22 page showcase of full page pattern images. The projects for the home are styled in cozy rooms while the accessories patterns alternate between being photographed on models or mannequins and dress forms.

The first chapter is Getting Started. The What You’ll Need section includes an overview of tools such as hooks, yarn, stuffing, and needles, and safety eyes. The Crochet Techniques section includes written tutorials with illustrations for holding the yarn and hook, making a slip knot, pattern abbreviations (including both US and UK abbreviations), 6 basic crochet stitches, tips for working in rows and rounds, starting with a joined ring and a magic ring, crocheting into spaces instead of stitches, increasing and decreasing, crocheting through the back loop, 3 special crochet stitches, and tips for working crochet edging on fabric. (You can see a sample of these illustrated tutorials below the excerpted pattern, below.) The next section is Finishing Touches, which includes written and illustrated tutorials for 4 joins, weaving in ends, adding buttons, finishing off, using a pom pom maker, 2 embroidery stitches, and blocking. This chapter introduces several “Handy Tips” by Emma (which appear throughout the book) that share helpful hints for troubleshooting and improving your crochet skills.

Granny Squares Weekend by Emma Varnam book review with pattern excerpt via Underground Crafter - Panda Cushion (lovey) image with childThe second chapter is The Projects. Patterns include 3 blankets, 2 cushions (pillows), 2 hats, and assorted projects for home, baby, and women’s accessories. Each pattern includes the finished size, “what you will need” (a supply list), and information about tension (gauge). Some of the patterns also include assembly diagrams or special stitch instructions. All of the patterns include several large, full color photographs of the patterns, too. There are no difficulty levels, but most patterns use simple stitches.

The book ends with a Sources and Resources section which lists yarn suppliers in the US and UK and helpful books and websites, and includes acknowledgements from Emma and an index.

Like Granny Squares Home, Emma’s Granny Squares Weekend is a treat for the eyes. The beautifully styled pictures of crochet filled homes make you want to grab your hook and cuddle up with some yarn. If you like comfort crochet, “mindless” crochet, mindful crochet, hygge, or boho crochet, you are sure to find some great projects in this book.

Panda Comforter

Crochet Pattern by Emma Varnam

Published in Granny Squares Weekend: 20 Quick and Easy Crochet Projects

© 2018 Emma Varnam and GMC Publications Ltd and shared with permission from GMC Publications Ltd.

Granny Squares Weekend by Emma Varnam book review with pattern excerpt via Underground Crafter - Panda Cushion (lovey)Notes from Underground Crafter:

For young babies, this cute comforter or lovey makes the perfect cuddly companion to snuggle up with in their cot or pram at nap time.

Finished size

  • Panda head approximately 2in (5cm) tall and 3in (8cm) wide
  • Blanket approximately 10.25in (26cm) wide

You will need

  • Debbie Bliss Baby Cashmerino, 55% wool, 33% acrylic, 12% cashmere (137yd/125m per 50g ball):
    • 1 x 50g ball 300 Black (A)
    • 1 x 50g ball 101 Ecru (B)
  • 3.5mm (UK9:USE/4) crochet hook
  • Tapestry needle
  • Polyester stuffing
  • Safety eyes

Tension

  • Tension is not essential for this project.

Note

  • The panda head, arms and ears are worked in spirals using the magic ring technique (see illustrated tutorial at end of pattern). The granny square blanket is made in a round and sewn to the base of the head.

Ears (make 2)

  • Using 3.5mm hook and A, make a magic ring (see illustrated tutorial at end of pattern).
  • Round 1: 1 ch, 6 dc into centre of the ring (6 sts).
  • Round 2: 2 dc in each st (12 sts).
  • Rounds 3–4: Work 2 rounds straight.
  • Round 5: (2 dc, dc2tog) three times (9 sts). Fasten off.
  • Flatten ear. Leave a yarn tail to sew to the head.

Head

  • Using 3.5mm hook and B, make a magic ring.
  • Round 1: 1 ch, 6 dc into the centre of the ring.
  • Round 2: 2 dc into each st (12 sts).
  • Round 3: (1 dc, dc2inc) six times (18 sts).
  • Round 4: (2 dc, dc2inc) six times (24 sts).
  • Round 5: (3 dc, dc2inc) six times (30 sts).
  • Round 6: (4 dc, dc2inc) six times (36 sts).
  • Round 7: (5 dc, dc2inc) six times (42 sts).
  • Rounds 8–12: Work 5 rounds straight.
  • Round 13: (5 dc, dc2tog) six times (36 sts).
  • Round 14: (4 dc, dc2tog) six times (30 sts).
  • Round 15: (3 dc, dc2tog) six times (24 sts).
  • Round 16: (2 dc, dc2tog) six times (18 sts).
  • Round 17: (1 dc, dc2tog) six times (12 sts).
  • Round 18: (dc2tog) six times (6 sts).
  • Fasten off. Leave a yarn tail to sew to the body.
  • Using the photograph as a guide, position the eyes on the face. With a tapestry needle and black embroidery thread, use satin stitch to embroider a small triangle for the nose and then use a back stitch to create a line below the nose (see illustrated tutorial at end of pattern). Sew the ears firmly to the top of the head.

Arms (make 2)

  • Using 3.5mm hook and A, make a magic ring.
  • Round 1: 1 ch, 6 dc into the centre of the ring.
  • Round 2: (1 dc, dc2inc) three times (9 sts).
  • Round 3: (2 dc, dc2inc) three times (12 sts).
  • Rounds 4–16: Work 13 rounds straight.
  • Fasten off. Leave a yarn tail to sew to the base of the head.

Making up

  • Stuff the head firmly. Using a tapestry needle, weave the tail of yarn through the last dc sts of the round of the head and gather hole together at the neck edge. Stuff the arms firmly and fold in half widthways at the top of the arms. Sew them to the base of the head near the neck edge.

Blanket

Granny Squares Weekend by Emma Varnam book review with pattern excerpt via Underground Crafter - Panda Cushion (Lovey) granny square

  • Using 3.5mm hook and B, ch 5 sts, sl st in first ch to form a loop.
  • Round 1: 3 ch, 2 tr in loop, 3 ch, (3 tr, 3 ch), rep twice more, sl st in 3 ch (4 tr clusters).
  • Round 2: Change to A, attach yarn to any 3 ch sp, 3 ch, 2 tr in ch sp, 3 ch, 3 tr, 1 ch, (3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr, 1 ch) in next ch sp three times, sl st in 3 ch (8 tr clusters).
  • Round 3: Change to B, attach yarn to any 3 ch sp, 3 ch, 2 tr in ch sp, 3 ch, 3 tr, 1 ch, (3 tr, 1 ch) in next ch sp, *(3 tr, 3 ch, 3 tr, 1 ch) in next 3 ch sp, (3 tr, 1 ch) in next ch sp; rep from * twice more, sl st in 3 ch (12 tr clusters).
  • Continue increasing the granny square in this manner, working in alternate colours.
  • Work until you have 48 treble clusters ending with a row in A.
  • Rounds 13–14: Sl st across 2 sts to corner ch sp, 1 ch, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into sp, 1 dc into each tr and 1 dc into every 1 ch, (2 dc, 1 ch, 2 dc) into every 3 ch sp, sl st into 1 ch at beg  of round.
  • Fasten off and weave in ends. Your granny square will measure approximately 10.25in (26cm) square.
  • Gently block the granny square.
  • Fasten off and weave in ends.

Finishing

  • Sew the head firmly to the centre of the blanket.

Magic ring

  • In recent years, with the increasing interest in making amigurumi or crochet toys, the magic ring (also known as the magic circle) technique has become popular. This is a neat way of starting a circular piece of crochet while avoiding the unsightly hole that can be left in the centre when you join a ring the normal way. Magic rings are nearly always made with double crochet stitches, as this creates a tight, dense crochet fabric. This technique is used for several projects, including the head of the Panda Comforter.

1 Start by making a basic slip knot. Pull up the loop and slip this loop onto your crochet hook.

Granny Squares Weekend by Emma Varnam book review with pattern excerpt via Underground Crafter - magic ring tutorial 12 Before you tighten the ring, wrap the yarn over the hook (outside the circle) and pull through to make the first chain.

Granny Squares Weekend by Emma Varnam book review with pattern excerpt via Underground Crafter - magic ring tutorial 23 Insert the hook into the ring, wrap the yarn over the hook and pull through the ring so there are two loops on the hook.

Granny Squares Weekend by Emma Varnam book review with pattern excerpt via Underground Crafter - magic ring tutorial 34 Wrap the yarn over the hook again (outside the circle) and pull through both loops.

Granny Squares Weekend by Emma Varnam book review with pattern excerpt via Underground Crafter - magic ring tutorial 45 You have made your first double crochet stitch.

Granny Squares Weekend by Emma Varnam book review with pattern excerpt via Underground Crafter - magic ring tutorial 56 Continue to work like this for as many double crochet stitches as are stated in the pattern instructions.

Granny Squares Weekend by Emma Varnam book review with pattern excerpt via Underground Crafter - magic ring tutorial 67 Pull the yarn tail to tighten the ring and then continue working in the round as usual.

Granny Squares Weekend by Emma Varnam book review with pattern excerpt via Underground Crafter - magic ring tutorial 7Back stitch

  • Back stitch is excellent for creating a straight line. Using the illustration as a guide, bring your needle up through your fabric at A and then push the needle back down at B. Bring the needle up again at C, and then down again at A. Work along like this to create a neat continuous line.

Granny Squares Weekend by Emma Varnam book review with pattern excerpt via Underground Crafter - back stitch tutorialYou can find Granny Squares Weekend and more Emma Varnam books on Amazon.


Book Review: Granny Squares and Shapes by Susan Pinner with Excerpt Pattern: Triangle Lap Blanket

Granny Squares & Shapes by Susan Pinner - book review with Triangle Lap Blanket pattern excerpt on Underground Crafter - book coverI’m sharing my review of a book by Susan “Sue” Pinner today, along with an excerpted pattern for a cozy motif lap blanket. Experiment with triangles while making this beautiful pattern!

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links. A free review copy of Granny Squares & Shapes: 20 Crochet Projects For You and Your Home by Susan Pinner was provided to me by GMC Publications Ltd. Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.

Book Review 

Granny Squares & Shapes: 20 Crochet Projects For You and Your Home is the second book by Susan “Sue” Pinner. It’s the follow up to Granny Squares: 20 Crochet Projects with a Vintage Vibe. If you’re familiar with that book or Sue’s blog, you are probably familiar with Sue’s cozy and colorful motif patterns. Granny Squares & Shapes delivers exactly what you would expect from Sue. It opens with her introduction, written in a very personable style. The book follows with 20 pages of “eye candy”: full size, full color photographs of the projects (with the pattern name and page number written towards the bottom of each page). The Getting Started section includes 20 pages of information to help even a beginner crocheter make the projects successfully. This section includes information about tools, yarns, basic crochet techniques (including written and illustrated instructions for the slip knot, 7 basic crochet stitches, 2 special stitches, several ways to work in the round, how to weave in ends, and 4 seaming methods), information about the care and blocking of your projects, and even a problem-solving guide. Throughout this section (and the rest of the book), you can find “Granny’s Tips” where Sue shares helpful tricks for crocheters. At the end of this section, Sue also includes basic patterns for 4-round granny squares, circles, and hexagons.

The next section, Projects, includes the patterns. There are 9 home decor patterns, including 2 bowls, 2 pillow covers, and a stool cover, bunting, blanket, table mat, and rug. The remaining 11 patterns are for women’s garments and accessories, including 2 tops, 2 wraps/shawls, a pair of slippers, a hair band, a beret, a shawl pin, a collar, a bag, and barefoot sandals. Each pattern includes the finished size, a materials list (or “you will need”) section, tension (gauge) information, and pattern notes. Again, the “Granny’s Tips” are sprinkled throughout to help you along the way. Each pattern is broken down into sections that include the motif patterns and instructions for assembly, if appropriate. Many projects include an assembly diagram. And, of course, there are loads of pictures, including full page images, details of the motifs, and close ups and modeled shots, too.

The book ends with back matter that includes a key to pattern abbreviations and conversion guides for US to UK abbreviations and hook sizes, a list of suppliers, and helpful resources including books and websites. I reviewed the UK version, but there is a US version available also. The book is a hefty paperback, so it is difficult to crochet and read at the same time, but it does have front and back cover flaps, so it’s easy to mark your place when you put the book down. The book doesn’t list a difficulty level with any of the patterns, but it’s safe to say that an adventurous (or determined) beginner can make anything included. More advanced crocheters will find the projects meditative and Sue’s color tips inspiring. I recommend this book for crocheters who like working with motifs and who are interested in going beyond the basic granny square blanket projects. And, of course, if you just like to flip through colorful project pictures for inspiration, you’ll enjoy this book, too.


Triangle Lap Blanket

Crochet Pattern by Susan Pinner

Published in Granny Squares & Shapes: 20 Crochet Projects For You and Your Home.

© 2015 Susan Pinner and GMC Publications Ltd and shared with permission from GMC Publications Ltd.

Granny Squares & Shapes by Susan Pinner - book review with Triangle Lap Blanket pattern excerpt on Underground Crafter - Triangle Lap Blanket on modelNotes from Underground Crafter:

This fabulous lap blanket is made from super-soft triangles in delicious muted colours, joined together with little circles. The blanket is finished with an edging of small coloured circles for an extra touch of style.

Granny Squares & Shapes by Susan Pinner - book review with Triangle Lap Blanket pattern excerpt on Underground Crafter - Triangle Lap Blanket closeupFinished size

  • 48 x 42in (121 x 106cm)

You will need

  • 10 x 1-3⁄4oz (50g) balls 50% alpaca/50% merino yarn in base colour (A)
  • 12 x 1-¾oz (50g) balls 50% alpaca/50% merino yarn in 12 different colours.
  • I used Rooster Almerino Aran in Cornish (base colour), Sugared Almond, Custard, Brighton, Hazelnut, Lolly, Lilac Sky, Shimmer, Sorbet, Sandcastle, Beach, Smoothie and Strawberry cream.
  • 4.5mm (UK7:US7) crochet hook

Tension

  • Not crucial to this project.

Blanket motif (make 96, 8 in each of the 12 colours)

Granny Squares & Shapes by Susan Pinner - book review with Triangle Lap Blanket pattern excerpt on Underground Crafter - Triangle Motif

  • Using A, make a finger wrap of 4 wraps (see Notes from Underground Crafter, above) or ch 5, sl st to complete round.
  • Round 1: Using A, ch 2 (counts as tr), 17 tr into circle, sl st to complete round, cut and weave in end (18 sts).
  • Round 2: Using selected colour, attach yarn in any st, ch 3 (counts as 1 dtr), 1 dtr into same st, * 1 tr into next 4 sts, 2 dtr into next st, ch 5, 2 dtr into next st, repeat from * to end, finishing with 2 dtr in last st, ch 5, sl st to complete round.
  • Round 3: Continue using selected colour, ch 2 (counts as 1 tr), 1 tr in next 7 sts, (3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr) in next ch 5 corner sp, *1 tr in next 8 sts, (3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr) in next ch 5 corner sp, repeat from * to end, sl st to complete, cut and weave in end (14 sts each side).

Join triangles

  • Lay out the triangles in a pleasing combination and join them together in rows, following the diagram (below), using a sl st in the ch 1 stitches on each of the triangle sides.
  • Round 1: Using A, attach yarn in a corner sp, ch 2 (counts as 1 tr), (1 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) into same sp, 1 tr into next 4 sts, ch 1, 1 tr into next 6 sts, ch 1, 1 tr into next 4 sts, *(2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) into next corner sp, 1 tr into next 4 sts, ch 1, 1 tr into next 6 sts, ch 1, 1 tr into next 4 sts, repeat from * to end, sl st to complete round, cut and weave in end. Using a sl st, join the triangles together at the 2 ch 1 sp only.Granny Squares & Shapes by Susan Pinner - book review with Triangle Lap Blanket pattern excerpt on Underground Crafter - assembly diagram

Joining circles

  • Join the internal triangles together first, after joining 2 rows of triangles. Work on the outer edge joins after you have put the whole hexagon together.
  • Using A, work a finger wrap of 4 wraps or ch 5, sl st to complete round.
  • Round 1: Continue using A, *2 dc into circle, sl st into a triangle point, repeat from * until 6 triangles are attached to the circle, sl st to complete, cut and weave in end (12 dc).

Finishing

  • Refer to the diagram. Using A, work a circle at each outer point where 3 triangles meet. Using a random selection of B–N, add 2 circles to each triangle on the ch 1 sts around the outer edge of hexagon.

Finger Wraps Illustrated Tutorial

  • Wrap the yarn around one or two fingers the number of times stated in the pattern. A finger wrap of three wraps is shown here.

Granny Squares & Shapes by Susan Pinner - book review with Triangle Lap Blanket pattern excerpt on Underground Crafter - Finger Wraps illustrated tutorial 1

  • Slide the loops off your finger, holding them tightly, and insert the hook.

Granny Squares & Shapes by Susan Pinner - book review with Triangle Lap Blanket pattern excerpt on Underground Crafter - Finger Wraps illustrated tutorial 2

  • Make the stitches as instructed into all of the rings until the round is complete.

Granny Squares & Shapes by Susan Pinner - book review with Triangle Lap Blanket pattern excerpt on Underground Crafter - Finger Wraps illustrated tutorial 3

  • There are no knots, and you cannot see where the stitches begin or end.

Granny Squares & Shapes by Susan Pinner - book review with Triangle Lap Blanket pattern excerpt on Underground Crafter - Finger Wraps illustrated tutorial 4

If you enjoyed this pattern, you can find 19 more like it in Granny Squares & Shapes: 20 Crochet Projects For You and Your Home on Amazon.