Animal Heads by Vanessa Mooncie Book Review with Zebra amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head Pattern

Animal Heads by Vanessa Mooncie cover via Underground CrafterIf you love to crochet quirky home decor projects, then you’re going to want to check out my review of a fun crochet pattern collection by Vanessa Mooncie. My review also includes an excerpted crochet pattern for a Zebra amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head, so read on for details!

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links. A free review copy of Animal Heads: Trophy Heads to Crochet by Vanessa Mooncie was provided to me by GMC Publications. Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.

Book Review

Animal Heads: Trophy Heads to Crochet by Vanessa Mooncie is a crochet book including ten life-sized patterns for amigurumi faux taxidermy heads.

The book opens with an introduction by Vanessa and then includes a gallery with a full page picture of each project mounted on a wall. The book then moves on to the patterns. Each pattern includes:

  • A materials list with yarn, hooks, and notions required;
  • The size (final measurements;
  • The tension (gauge);
  • A key to all international stitch symbols used in the pattern;
  • The method, which explains the construction process;
  • A written pattern using U.K. pattern abbreviations;
  • A charted pattern using international stitch symbols;
  • Instructions for making up (assembly) of the finished trophy head; and
  • Multiple pictures of the finished trophy head.

Patterns are included for a mouse, a hare, a fox, a ram, a swan, a lion, a stag, a bull, a black bear, and a zebra.

After the patterns, Getting Started includes information about hooks, notions, yarn substitutions, reading charts, and measuring gauge. Crochet Stitches includes written and illustrated instructions for making a slip knot, holding the crochet hook, forming a magic ring, seven basic stitches (UK chain, slip stitch, double crochet, half treble crochet, treble crochet, double treble, triple treble), increasing and decreasing, crocheting in the front and back loop, and changing colors. Finishing Touches provide instructions for stuffing, seaming, embellishing with basic embroidery stitches, using nylon thread for whiskers, and mounting. Caring for Your Animal Heads gives helpful tips for keeping these clean as they can’t be machine washed like other crochet projects (because of the mounting). The book ends with a glossary of crochet abbreviations, including a UK/US conversion chart, and a list of suppliers for yarn, glue, embroidery thread and needles, stuffing (wadding), wire, cutting equipment, and mounting boards.

Animal Heads doesn’t list pattern difficulty levels, but the patterns use beginner-friendly stitches. The instructions are detailed as each trophy head looks relatively realistic, so there are multiple color changes, increases, and decreases for each project. In other words, a dedicated or patient beginner can tackle every project in the book, but a more experienced pattern reader may feel more confident. The designs are whimsical and would be great projects for the home or fun gifts to give. The book is a paperback but it has both front and back flaps which allow you to mark you place so you won’t get lost when working on a multi-part pattern. I loved the pattern in this book and also the design, which makes the projects inviting and shows off each project beautifully. If you like to crochet unique gifts, or make quirky home decor projects, you’ll love Animal Heads!


Zebra

Crochet Pattern by Vanessa Mooncie

Published in Animal Heads: Trophy Heads to Crochet

Pattern, Charts, and Photos © 2015 GMC Publications, Ltd. Shared with permission from GMC Publications, Ltd.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - zebra mounted on wallNotes from Underground Crafter:

  • This pattern uses U.K. pattern abbreviations. The Craft Yarn Council has a full list of abbreviations, including the differences between U.S. and U.K. terms, here.
  • New Stitch a Day has a helpful video tutorial for the dc2dec stitch used in this pattern (a decrease that is also known as sc2tog in U.S. abbreviations). You can find the tutorial here.
  • This pattern also uses international stitch symbol charts. You can find a key to those symbols from the book below.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - keyThe direction of the zebra’s stripes is determined by the shaping of the head, crocheted in rounds and short rows. The mane is made by attaching tassels to the stitches and brushing through the yarn to tangle the fibres and help it stand on end.

Materials

  • Wendy Mode Chunky, 50% wool, 50% acrylic (153yd/140m per 100g ball), or any chunky yarn:
    • 3 x 100g balls in 202 Vanilla (A)
    • 4 x 100g balls in 220 Coal (B)
  • Wendy Serenity Super Chunky, 10% alpaca, 20% wool, 70% acrylic (87yd/80m per 100g ball):
    • 1 x 100g ball in 1712 Jet (C)
    • 1 x 100g ball in 1701 Chalk (D)
  • Oddments of DK yarn in brown (E) and black (F)
  • 3mm (UK11:US-) and 4.5mm (UK7:US7) crochet hooks
  • Blunt-ended tapestry needle
  • Toy stuffing
  • 2 circles of mount board, measuring 12 1⁄4in (31cm) in diameter, for the base
  • 2 pieces of mount board, measuring 23⁄8 x 63⁄4in (6 x 17cm), for the ears, with one short end of each cut to form a pointed arch shape
  • Stranded embroidery thread in black
  • Embroidery needle
  • 0.75in (2cm) brass curtain or roman blind ring
  • Hairbrush and watered-down PVA glue in a trigger-spray bottle (optional)

Size

  • Approximately 23in (58cm) from the tip of the nose to the base

Tension (Gauge)

  • 14 sts and 15 rows to 4in (10cm) over double crochet using 4.5mm hook

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - zebra on wall white backgroundMethod

  • The head is started in rounds of double crochet, beginning at the nose end. The curved stripes at the front of the face are formed by working short rows, starting with a small number of stitches and working into an extra stitch at each end of every row. The stitches are increased in the centre of each row to keep the shape of the face straight, up to the centre of the head. The gap left between the rows, at the top of the face, is filled with short rows and then the head is continued in rounds. The top and back of the head and the front of the neck shaping are formed by crocheting short rows. This also changes the direction of the stripes. The base is made with two crocheted circles, joined together to form a pocket. Two circular pieces of mount board are slipped inside to keep the base rigid, before joining it to the stuffed head by crocheting into each stitch on both pieces at the same time. The vertical striped piece, going down the front of the face, is crocheted separately. It is worked in rows and shaped by increasing the stitches as well as working half treble and treble stitches. The ears are also worked in rows, increasing the stitches at the top to form the pointed shape. They are each made in two pieces, joined and stuffed lightly, with the addition of a folded mount board inserted inside to provide extra shaping, and to keep them firm. The eyes are worked in rounds and the eyelids made by crocheting short rows. The horizontal pupils are embroidered on. The mouth is made in rounds of double crochet. The top of the top lip is shaped by crocheting short rows. Nostrils, made in two pieces joined together, are stitched on to the top lip. The vertical striped piece and the rest of the zebra’s features are sewn to the head. A brass ring is crocheted around to cover it and then it is stitched to the back of the head so it can be mounted on the wall. Finally, the mane, consisting of three rows of tassels, is made by hooking lengths of yarn to the stitches down the centre back of the head. The fibres of the yarn are matted together by brushing the tassels to help them stand upright. Diluted PVA glue can be sprayed over the mane to help keep it in shape.

Head

  • Starting at the front of the face, with 4.5mm hook and A, wind yarn around finger a couple of times to form a ring, insert hook into ring, catch yarn and draw through.
  • Round 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 6 dc into ring (6 sts).
  • Round 2 (inc): (Dc2inc) 6 times (12 sts). Pull tight on the short end of the yarn to close the ring.
  • Round 3 (inc): (Dc2inc, 1 dc) 6 times (18 sts).
  • Round 4 (inc): (Dc2inc, 2 dc) 6 times (24 sts).
  • Round 5 (inc): (Dc2inc, 3 dc) 6 times (30 sts).
  • Round 6 (inc): (Dc2inc, 4 dc) 6 times (36 sts).
  • Round 7 (inc): (Dc2inc, 5 dc) 6 times (42 sts).
  • Rounds 8-12: 1 dc in each dc
  • Round 13 (inc): (Dc2inc, 6 dc) 6 times (48 sts).

Front markings

  • Carry the unused yarn up the wrong side of the work.
  • The following is worked in rows:
  • Row 1 (RS): Work 1 dc into the next 6 dc, turn.
  • Row 2 (WS): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, turn.
  • Row 3 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 2 dc, turn (50 sts).
  • Row 4: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, turn.
  • Row 5 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, (4 dc, dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, turn (52 sts).
  • Row 6: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn.
  • Join in B.
  • Row 7 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 8 dc, turn (54 sts).
  • Row 8: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, turn.
  • Row 9 (inc): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 10 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, turn (56 sts).
  • Row 10: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 31 dc, turn.
  • Row 11 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 14 dc, turn (58 sts).
  • Row 12: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 37 dc, turn.
  • Row 13 (inc): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 16 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 17 dc, turn (60 sts).
  • Row 14: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 43 dc, turn.
  • Row 15 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 20 dc, turn (62 sts).
  • Row 16: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 49 dc, turn.
  • Row 17 (inc): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 22 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 23 dc, turn (64 sts).
  • Row 18: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 55 dc, turn.
  • Row 19 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 26 dc, turn (66 sts).
  • Row 20: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 61 dc, with A, work 1 dc in the next 4 dc, turn.
  • Fasten off B and continue in A.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - head front markings chartShape top of face

  • Row 1 (dec) (RS): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, dc2dec, turn (65 sts).
  • Row 2 (dec) (WS): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, dc2dec, turn (64 sts).
  • Row 3 (dec): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, dc2dec, turn (63 sts).
  • Row 4 (dec): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 6 dc, dc2dec, turn (62 sts).
  • Row 5 (dec): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, dc2dec, turn (61 sts).
  • Row 6 (dec): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 8 dc, dc2dec, turn (60 sts).
  • Row 7: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, turn.
  • Row 8: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, turn.
  • Row 9: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 15 dc, turn.
  • Row 10: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 17 dc, turn.
  • Row 11: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn.
  • Row 12: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 21 dc, turn.
  • Row 13: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 23 dc, turn.
  • Row 14: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, turn.
  • Row 15: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 27 dc, turn.
  • Row 16: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 29 dc, turn. Join in B.
  • Row 17: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 31 dc, turn.
  • Row 18: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 33 dc, turn.
  • Row 19: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 59 dc, do not turn.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - shape top of face chart 1

  • The following is worked in rounds:
  • Round 1 (inc): (Dc2inc, 9 dc) 6 times (66 sts).
  • Fasten off A and B. Miss the first 20 dc and join B to the 21st dc with a sl st. The visible join at the start and end of each stripe will now be at the top of the face and eventually hidden beneath the vertical striped piece that will be stitched over the top.
  • Round 2: With B, work 1 dc into the same dc as the sl st, 1 dc in each of the next 65 dc.
  • Round 3: 1 dc in each dc. Join in A.
  • Round 4: With A, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 5 (inc): (Dc2inc, 10 dc) 6 times (72 sts).
  • Rounds 6–7: With B, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 8: With A, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 9 (inc): (Dc2inc, 11 dc) 6 times (78 sts).
  • Round 10: With B, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 11 (inc): (Dc2inc, 12 dc) 6 times (84 sts).
  • Round 12: With A, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 13 (inc): (Dc2inc, 13 dc) 6 times (90 sts).
  • Round 14: With B, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 15 (inc): (Dc2inc, 14 dc) 6 times (96 sts).
  • Rounds 16–17: With A, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Rounds 18–19: With B, 1 dc in each dc.
  • Rounds 20–21: With A, 1 dc in each dc.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - shape top of face chart 2Shape top of head

  • Carry the unused yarn up the wrong side of the work.
  • The following is worked in rows:
  • Row 1 (RS): With A, work 1 dc into the next 13 dc, turn.
  • Row 2 (WS): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, turn.
  • Row 3 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, turn (98 sts).
  • Row 4: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, turn.
  • Row 5 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 6 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, turn (100 sts).
  • Row 6: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn.
  • Row 7 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 9 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 10 dc, turn (102 sts).
  • Row 8: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, turn.
  • Row 9: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 27 dc, turn.
  • Row 10: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 29 dc, turn.
  • Row 11: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 31 dc, turn.
  • Row 12: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 33 dc, turn.
  • Row 13 (dec): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc n front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 33 dc, dc2dec, turn (101 sts).
  • Row 14 (dec): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 34 dc, dc2dec, turn (100 sts).
  • Row 15 (dec): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 35 dc, dc2dec, turn (99 sts).
  • Row 16 (dec): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 36 dc, dc2dec, turn (98 sts).
  • Row 17 (dec): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 37 dc, dc2dec, turn (97 sts).
  • Row 18 (dec): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 38 dc, dc2dec (96 sts).
  • Fasten off A and B.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - shape top of head chartShape back of head

  • With RS of top of head facing, miss the first 15 sts of the 40 dc worked on the previous row and join B to the 16th dc with a sl st.
  • Row 1 (RS): With B, work 1 dc into the same dc as the sl st, 1 dc in the next 9 dc, turn.
  • Row 2 (WS): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, turn.
  • Join in A.
  • Row 3: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, turn.
  • Row 4: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 15 dc, turn.
  • Row 5: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 17 dc, turn.
  • Row 6: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn.
  • Row 7: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 21 dc, turn.
  • Row 8: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 23 dc, turn.
  • Row 9: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, turn.
  • Row 10: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 27 dc, turn.
  • Row 11: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 29 dc, turn.
  • Row 12: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 31 dc, turn.
  • Row 13: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 33 dc, turn.
  • Row 14: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 35 dc, turn.
  • Row 15: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 37 dc, turn.
  • Row 16: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 39 dc, turn.
  • Row 17: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 41 dc, turn.
  • Row 18: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 43 dc, turn.
  • Row 19: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 45 dc, turn.
  • Row 20: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 47 dc, turn.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - shape back of head chart

  • Row 21: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 49 dc, turn.
  • Row 22: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 51 dc, turn.
  • Row 23: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 53 dc, turn.
  • Row 24: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 55 dc, turn.
  • Row 25: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 57 dc, turn.
  • Row 26: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 59 dc, turn.
  • Row 27: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 61 dc, turn.
  • Row 28: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 63 dc, turn.
  • Row 29: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 65 dc, turn.
  • Row 30: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 67 dc, turn.
  • Row 31: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 69 dc, turn.
  • Row 32: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 71 dc, turn.
  • Row 33: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 73 dc, turn.
  • Row 34: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 75 dc, turn.
  • Row 35: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 77 dc, turn.
  • Row 36: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 79 dc, turn.
  • Row 37: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 81 dc, turn.
  • Row 38: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 83 dc, turn.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - shape back of head chart 2

  • Row 39: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 85 dc, turn.
  • Row 40: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 87 dc, turn.
  • Row 41: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 89 dc, turn.
  • Row 42: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 95 dc, turn.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - shape front of neck chartShape front neck

  • Row 43: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, turn.
  • Row 44: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, turn.
  • Row 45 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 4 dc, turn (98 sts).
  • Row 46: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, turn.
  • Row 47 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 6 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, turn (100 sts).
  • Row 48: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn.
  • Row 49 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 9 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 10 dc, turn (102 sts).
  • Row 50: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, turn.
  • Row 51 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 12 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, turn (104 sts).
  • Row 52: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 31 dc, turn.
  • Row 53 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 15 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 16 dc, turn (106 sts).
  • Row 54: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 37 dc, turn.
  • Row 55 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 18 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn (108 sts).
  • Row 56: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 43 dc, turn.
  • Row 57 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 21 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 22 dc, turn (110 sts).
  • Row 58: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 49 dc, turn.
  • Row 59 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, turn (112 sts).
  • Row 60: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 55 dc, turn.
  • Row 61 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 27 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 28 dc, turn (114 sts).
  • Row 62: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 61 dc, turn.
  • Row 63 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 30 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 31 dc, turn (116 sts).
  • Row 64: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 67 dc, turn.
  • Row 65 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 33 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 34 dc, turn (118 sts).
  • Row 66: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 73 dc, turn.
  • Row 67 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 36 dc, (dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 37 dc, turn (120 sts).
  • Row 68: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 79 dc, turn.
  • Row 69: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 81 dc, turn.
  • Row 70: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 83 dc, turn.
  • Row 71: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 85 dc, turn.
  • Row 72: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 87 dc, turn.
  • Row 73: With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 89 dc, turn.
  • Row 74: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 91 dc, turn.
  • Row 75: Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 93 dc, do not turn.
  • The following is worked in rounds:
  • Rounds 1–2 (RS): Work 1 dc in the next 120 dc.
  • Fasten off. Stuff the head and neck firmly, up to just below the last round. Be careful not to overstuff the head, keeping it narrow at the front of the face. More stuffing will be added when the base is attached.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - shape front of neck chart 2Base

  • With 4.5mm hook and B, wind yarn around finger a couple of times to form a ring, insert hook into ring, catch yarn and draw through.
  • Rounds 1–11: Work Rounds 1–11 of head (66 sts).
  • Round 12 (inc): (Dc2inc, 10 dc) 6 times (72 sts).
  • Round 13 (inc): (Dc2inc, 11 dc) 6 times (78 sts).
  • Round 14 (inc): (Dc2inc, 12 dc) 6 times (84 sts).
  • Round 15 (inc): (Dc2inc, 13 dc) 6 times (90 sts).
  • Round 16 (inc): (Dc2inc, 14 dc) 6 times (96 sts).
  • Round 17 (inc): (Dc2inc, 15 dc) 6 times (102 sts).
  • Round 18 (inc): (Dc2inc, 16 dc) 6 times (108 sts).
  • Round 19 (inc): (Dc2inc, 17 dc) 6 times (114 sts).
  • Round 20 (inc): (Dc2inc, 18 dc) 6 times (120 sts).
  • Rounds 21–23: 1 dc in each dc. Fasten off.
  • Make one more piece to match the first. Do not fasten off at the end.

Join base pieces

  • Place the two base pieces with WS together. Work 1 dc in each of the next 90 dc of both pieces at the same time to join. Slip the two circular boards in between the pieces and continue to join the two, stretching the work over the board and crocheting into the remaining 30 dc of both pieces at the same time to close. Do not fasten off.

Join base to back of zebra

  • With the base facing up, work 1 dc in the first dc of the base and, at the same time, into a dc of the last round at the back of the zebra to join. Continue to work 1 dc into each of the next 99 dc, inserting the hook first into the base and then into the last round of the zebra. Add more stuffing before continuing, filling the neck firmly. Work 1 dc into the remaining 20 dc of each piece as before, adding extra stuffing, if necessary, before closing. Sl st to the next st and fasten off.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - base chartVertical face stripes

  • Carry the unused yarn across the lower edge of the work.
  • With 4.5mm hook and A, make 40 ch.
  • Row 1: 1 dc into second ch from hook, 1 dc into next 38 ch, turn (39 sts).
  • Join in B.
  • Row 2 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 38 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the reverse side of the 39 ch, turn (79 sts).
  • Row 3 (inc): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 dc, 1 tr in the next 3 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 dc, 1 dc in the next 6 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 6 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 dc, 1 tr in the next 3 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 dc, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (81 sts).
  • Row 4 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 3 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 3 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (83 sts).
  • Row 5 (inc): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next tr, tr3inc, 1 tr in the next tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 8 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 8 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next tr, tr3inc, 1 tr in the next tr, 1 htr in the next 3 tr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (89 sts).
  • Row 6 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 5 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 9 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 9 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 5 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (91 sts).
  • Row 7 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 5 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 10 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 10 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 5 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (93 sts).
  • Row 8 (inc): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 2 tr, tr3inc, 1 tr in the next 2 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 2 tr, tr3inc, 1 tr in the next 2 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (99 sts).
  • Row 9 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 7 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 12 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 12 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 7 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (101 sts).
  • Row 10 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 3 tr, tr3inc, 1 tr in the next 3 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 tr in the next 3 tr, tr3inc, 1 tr in the next 3 tr, 1 htr in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (107 sts).
  • Row 11 (inc): Make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, 1 dc in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 4 tr, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 4 tr, 1 dc in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 14 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 14 dc, 1 dc in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 4 tr, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 4 tr, 1 dc in the next 3 htr, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (113 sts).
  • Row 12 (inc): With A, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 32 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 23 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 23 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 32 dc, turn (119 sts).
  • Fasten off, leaving a long length of A at the end.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - vertical face stripes chartMouth

Bottom lip

  • With 4.5mm hook and B, wind yarn around finger a couple of times to form a ring, insert hook into ring, catch yarn and draw through.
  • Round 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 6 dc into ring (6 sts).
  • Round 2 (inc): (Dc2inc) 6 times (12 sts). Pull tight on the short end of the yarn to close the ring.
  • Round 3 (inc): (Dc2inc, 1 dc) 6 times (18 sts).
  • Round 4 (inc): (Dc2inc, 2 dc) 6 times (24 sts).
  • Round 5: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 6 (inc): (Dc2inc, 3 dc) 6 times (30 sts).
  • Round 7 (inc): (Dc2inc, 4 dc) 6 times (36 sts).
  • Round 8 (inc): (Dc2inc, 5 dc) 6 times (42 sts).
  • Round 9 (inc): (Dc2inc, 6 dc) 6 times (48 sts).
  • Rounds 10–12: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Sl st to the next st and fasten off, leaving long length of yarn at the end.

Top lip

  • With 4.5mm hook and B, wind yarn around finger a couple of times to form a ring, insert hook into ring, catch yarn and draw through.
  • Rounds 1–11: Work Rounds 1–11 of head (66 sts).
  • Round 12 (inc): (Dc2inc, 10 dc) 6 times (72 sts).
  • Rounds 13–18: 1 dc in each dc.

Join top edges

  • Flatten the piece and work 1 dc into each of the 36 dc from both sides at the same time to join (36 sts).  Fasten off.

Shape top

  • Miss the first 15 sts of the 36 dc of the joined edges and rejoin B to the 16th dc with a sl st.
  • Row 1: Work 1 dc into the same dc as the sl st, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, turn.
  • Row 2: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 7 dc, turn.
  • Row 3 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, (2 dc, dc2inc) twice, 1 dc in the next 3 dc, turn (38 sts).
  • Row 4: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 13 dc, turn.
  • Row 5 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 5 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 2 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 6 dc, turn (40 sts).
  • Row 6: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn.
  • Row 7 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of first dc, 1 dc in next 8 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in next 2 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in next 9 dc, turn (42 sts).
  • Row 8: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc, turn.
  • Row 9 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 2 dc, dc2inc, 1 dc in the next 12 dc, turn (44 sts).
  • Row 10: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 1 dc into the dc in front of the first dc, 1 dc in the next 31 dc.
  • Sl st to the next st and fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn at the end.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - lip chartNostrils (make 2)

  • With 4.5mm hook and B, wind yarn around finger a couple of times to form a ring, insert hook into ring, catch yarn and draw through.
  • Round 1: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 6 dc into ring (6 sts).
  • Round 2 (inc): Make 4 ch, work 1 dc into the second ch from hook, 1 dc in the next 2 ch, (dc2inc) 6 times, 1 dc into the reverse side of the 3 ch (18 sts). Pull tight on the short end of the yarn to close the ring. Fasten off.

Opening

  • With 4.5mm hook and B, make 15 ch and sl st to the first ch to form a ring.
  • Next: 1 ch (does not count as a st), work 18 dc into the ring.
  • Do not fasten off.

Join opening to nostril

  • Place the pieces together, with the opening on top. Join the two by crocheting 1 dc into each of the 18 dc of both pieces at the same time. Sl st to the first dc and fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn at the end.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - lip chart 2Eyes (make 2)

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - detail of eyeIris

  • With 3mm hook and E, wind yarn around finger a couple of times to form a ring, insert hook into ring, catch yarn and draw through.
  • Round 1 (RS): 1 ch (does not count as a stitch), 6 dc into ring (6 sts).
  • Round 2 (inc): (Dc2inc) 6 times (12 sts). Pull on the short end of yarn to close the ring.
  • Round 3 (inc): (Dc2inc, 1 dc) 6 times (18 sts).
  • Round 4 (inc): (Dc2inc, 2 dc) 6 times (24 sts).
  • Join in F.
  • Round 5: With F, work 1 dc in each dc.

Eye socket

  • Join and continue in B, keeping F at the front of the work.
  • Change to 4.5mm hook.
  • Round 6: With B, work 1 dc in the back loop only of each dc.

Eyelid

  • Round 7: 1 dc in the first 12 dc, work 1 dc in the front loop only (the loop nearest to you) of the next 12 dc (these 12 sts form the eyelid), sl st into the next dc, turn.
  • The following is worked in rows:
  • Row 1 (WS): 1 dc into each of the 12 dc of the eyelid, sl st into the next dc, turn.
  • Row 2 (RS): Sl st into each of the 12 dc of the eyelid, sl st into the same dc as the sl st on round 7, turn.

Finish socket

  • Join in A.
  • The following is worked in rounds:
  • Round 1 (inc) (WS): With A, (dc2inc, 3 dc) 3 times into the remaining back loops of round 6, behind the eyelid, 1 dc in the same dc as the sl st, 1 dc into the next 10 dc, 1 dc in the same dc as the next sl st (27 sts).
  • Round 2 (inc): (Dc2inc, 4 dc) 3 times, sl st to the next st (30 sts).
  • Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn at the end.

Finish eye

  • Next round: With 3mm hook and F, sl st into the front loops of the 24 dc of Round 5, sl st into the first st and fasten off.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - eye chartEars (make 2)

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - profile of zebraInner ear

  • With 4.5mm hook and A, make 20 ch.
  • Row 1 (WS): 1 dc into second ch from hook, 1 dc into next 17 ch, 3 dc into next ch, 1 dc down reverse side of the next 18 ch, turn (39 sts).
  • Row 2 (inc) (RS): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 19 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, turn (41 sts).
  • Row 3 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), dc2inc, 1 dc in the first 19 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 19 dc, dc2inc, turn (45 sts).
  • Row 4 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 22 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 22 dc, turn (47 sts).
  • Row 5 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 23 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 23 dc, turn (49 sts).
  • Row 6 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 24 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 24 dc, turn (51 sts).
  • Row 7 (inc): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 25 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 25 dc (53 sts). Fasten off.

Outer ear

  • With 4.5mm hook and A, make 19 ch.
  • Row 1 (RS): 1 dc into second ch from hook, 1 dc into next 16 ch, 3 dc into next ch, 1 dc down reverse side of the next 17 ch, turn (37 sts).
  • Row 2 (inc) (WS): 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 18 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 18 dc, turn (39 sts).
  • Row 3 (inc): As row 2 of inner ear.
  • Row 4 (inc): As row 3 of inner ear.
  • Row 5 (inc): As row 4 of inner ear.
  • Row 6 (inc): As row 5 of inner ear.
  • Row 7 (inc): 2 ch (to count as first htr), miss first dc, 1 htr in the next 13 dc, 1 dc in the next 10 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 10 dc, 1 htr in the next 14 dc, turn (51 sts).
  • Join in B.
  • Row 8 (inc): With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), 1 dc in the first 14 htr, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc in the next 11 dc, 1 dc in the next 13 htr, 1 dc in the second of 2 ch (53 sts). Do not fasten off.

Join ear pieces

  • Place wrong sides of inner and outer ear together, with the inner ear facing up.
  • Next: With B, make 1 ch (does not count as a st), inserting the hook under both loops of each stitch of the inner ear first, then the outer ear to join, work 1 dc in each of the next 26 dc, dc3inc, 1 dc into each of the next 26 dc (55 sts). Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn at the end.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - ear chartMaking up

Vertical face stripes

  • Position the stripes going down the centre of the head, aligning the pointed tip with the top of the first stripe in B at the top of the face shaping. Sew the piece neatly to the face, stitching all around the edges.

Mouth

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - detail of muzzle

  • Place the bottom lip off-centre, on the lower part of the front of the face, so the lower edge of the mouth covers the first stripe in B. Thread the length of yarn, left after fastening off, onto a needle and sew it in place, leaving an opening to stuff it before closing.
  • Place the top lip piece so it covers the last four rounds at the top of the bottom lip, and the shaped top of the lip covers the lower end of the vertical stripes. Stitch the top edge in place using the length of yarn left over after fastening off and sew down the outer edges that overhang the sides of the bottom lip.

Nostrils

  • Sew the nostrils in place on the top lip, positioning the top of each nostril around two rounds down, before the top of the lip shaping. Stitch all around the edges.

Eyes

  • With three strands of embroidery thread, embroider the horizontal pupil in satin stitch (see below for Satin Stitch tutorial). Position an eye to each side of the face, over the shaping on each side of the vertical stripes. With the length of yarn left after fastening off, sew all around the outer edges of the eyes, inserting a small amount of stuffing before closing the opening.

Ears

  • Lightly score a line down the centre of each piece of mount board cut for the ears and fold to shape it. Insert a strip of board into the centre of each crocheted ear, so the pointed arch is at the pointed tip of the ears. Add a thin layer of stuffing to the back of each ear, behind the board. With the length of yarn left after fastening off, sew together the lower edges. Bring the lower corners together to meet in the middle of the inner ear and stitch 5⁄8in (1.5cm) of each side together to shape. Sew each ear neatly to the head, behind the eyes, stitching all around the edges to attach them securely in place.

Hanging loop

  • With 3mm hook and B, work 18 dc around the brass ring. Sl st to the first dc. Follow the chart for the hanging loop below. Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn. Thread the length of yarn onto a needle and sew the lower edge of the ring securely to the top of the base.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - hanging loop chartMane

  • The mane is made with three rows of tassels that are threaded through the stitches. Follow the instructions to attach the tassels (below), using two 8in (20cm) lengths together. Starting at the first black stripe at the top of the head, between the ears, attach one tassel in C to each narrow stripe going down the centre back. Attach two tassels to the wider black stripe at the beginning of the back of head shaping. Attach one tassel to the first round of the last black stripe, in front of the hanging loop, to finish the first row.
  • On each side of the central line of tassels, attach a tassel in C to the next stitch on the black stripes only. Attach a tassel in D on each side of the central tassel, on each white stripe.
  • Lay the zebra on one side. Separate the outer row of tassels and, keeping one hand beneath the remaining two rows, use the hairbrush to brush through them both, from the knot up to the ends. Quite a bit of fluff will come out of the yarn, but the fibres will matt together and help the mane stand up. Lay the separated tassels back over the brushed rows and brush through them, with a hand beneath the mane, as before.
  • Turn the zebra onto the other side and brush through once more. The stripes will be quite soft and standing upright from the head.
  • The mane can be fixed, to help keep it in place, with a little watered-down PVA glue. Lay the zebra on its side. Spray one side at a time and allow to dry before spraying the other side of the mane. The mane can be brushed through again while the glue is still damp, but remember to rinse the brush out thoroughly before using on your own hair.
  • Trim the ends of the mane to neaten.
  • Weave in all the ends of yarn.

Satin Stitch

  • Work straight stitches side by side and close together across a shape. Take care to keep the stitches even and the edge neat. The finished result will look like satin.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - satin stitch illustrationTassels

  1. Fold two 9.5in (24cm) lengths of A in half to form a loop. Insert the crochet hook behind the post of the stitch and back out through to the front. Catch the looped yarn.
  2. Pull the loop a little way through, remove the hook and then thread the ends of the yarn back through the loop, pulling them tight. This completes one tassel.
  3. Miss 1 stitch and rep steps 1 and 2 to attach the yarn to the next st. Continue adding tassels to every alternate stitch to the end of the round. Miss the round of stitches above and attach more tassels to the next round in the same way, threading the yarn through a stitch so the tassel lies between the two below.
  4. Attach tassels, as before, to the alternate rows and stitches that shape the front of the chest. Continue onto the rounds at the neck and then thread more tassels onto the visible stitches of the rows shaping the back of the head, working around the horns and ears. On the final layer of fringe, attach a tassel to every stitch going under the chin and across the last row at the front of the head, between the horns, so there are no noticeable gaps.
  5. Trim the ends to neaten.

Zebra free crochet amigurumi faux taxidermy trophy head pattern by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter - tassels illustrationIf you enjoyed this pattern by Vanessa Mooncie and you also knit, check out my review of Monster Hats: 15 Scary Head Warmers to Knit with the knitting pattern for the Alien hat here.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | Alien hat flat lay

Classic Kicks for Little Feet by Helga Spitz Book Review with Basketball Shoes booties Pattern

Free knitting pattern: Basketball Shoes booties by Helga Spitz (excerpted with permission from Classic Kicks for Little Feet: 16 Knitted Shoe Styles for Baby's First Year) via Underground Crafter | booties garlandIf you like to knit quick projects for the littles, then you’re going to want to check out my review of a new pattern book by Helga Spitz. My review also includes an excerpted knitting pattern for infant Basketball Shoes booties and your chance to win a copy of the book, so read on for details!

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links. A free review copy of Classic Kicks for Little Feet: 16 Knitted Shoe Styles for Baby’s First Year by Helga Spitz was provided to me by Sixth&Spring Books. Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.

Book Review

Classic Kicks for Little Feet: 16 Knitted Shoe Styles for Baby's First Year by Helga Spitz cover via Underground CrafterClassic Kicks for Little Feet: 16 Knitted Shoe Styles for Baby’s First Year by Helga Spitz is a knitting pattern collection of what used to be called “booties.” However, Helga’s designs go beyond the classic little envelope style into trendy shoe territory.

The book opens with Knitting Instructions, which includes all the background information you need before getting started. The Basics includes yarn substitutions from European brands to yarns that are easier to find in the United States. Sizes explains how to adjust the size of each project using thicker or thinner yarns and a different size of needles. This chapter also includes a chart of the Standard Yarn Weight System so you can find an appropriately sized needle when changing yarns.

The next chapters include patterns. For Tiny Dancers includes four patterns for feminine shoes such as Mary Jane’s and ballet slippers; The Big Outdoors includes four patterns for cozy boots in various styles; Eye-Catchers includes four patterns for casual shoes including mock sneakers and loafers; and Summer, Sun, Sandals includes four outdoorsy projects including espadrilles and moccasins.

Each pattern includes at least one full page picture (often with the adult-sized shoes that inspired the pattern in the background), along with a materials list including the yarn, needles, and notions required for the pattern, instructions for getting gauge, and the size. Each pattern is available in one of three sizes: 0-3 months, 3-6 months, and 6-9 months (with approximate measures for the sole of each size listed in the Sizes section of the Knitting Instructions chapter). Many of the patterns also include whimsical illustrations of playful animals.

The book ends with Helpful Information, which includes a list of knitting pattern abbreviations, written instructions for double stitch to avoid holes when working short rows, and an index.

None of the patterns include difficulty levels, but since most use several increases or decreases and the book doesn’t include any knitting instructions, I would recommend the book for intermediate or advanced beginner knitters who enjoy making projects for newborns and infants. Like all pattern books, your enjoyment will be increased if you find plenty of projects you’d like to make in this book. You can see all 16 patterns from Classic Kicks for Little Feet on the book’s Ravelry source page. I liked that the book is hardcover, because it seems like it will be sturdy enough to become that “go to” baby pattern book that you return to again and again for quick but satisfying projects.

Basketball Shoes

Knitting Pattern by Helga Spitz

Published in Classic Kicks for Little Feet: 16 Knitted Shoe Styles for Baby’s First Year.

Pattern and Photos © 2018 Sixth&Spring Books. Shared with permission from Sixth&Spring Books.

Free knitting pattern: Basketball Shoes booties by Helga Spitz (excerpted with permission from Classic Kicks for Little Feet: 16 Knitted Shoe Styles for Baby's First Year) via Underground Crafter | shoes near basketballNotes from Underground Crafter:

  • This pattern uses Craft Yarn Council knitting abbreviations. A full list of abbreviations is available here.
  • You can find a helpful video tutorial for the k2tog decrease by LoveKnitting here.
  • This pattern is designed to fit a 0-3 month old with a sole length of 3.5″ (9 cm).

Just because you don’t have the height yet doesn’t mean the gear can’t make you look like a star.

Materials

  • 3.5oz/100g ball (220yd/200m) of Cascade 220 Superwash (wool) – 1 each in white, red, navy, and royal blue
  • 1 set (5) size 5 (3.75mm) dpn
  • Crochet hook size E-4 (3.5mm)
  • Stitch marker
  • Yarn needle

Gauge

  • 22 sts and 44 rows to 4″/10cm over garter st using size 5 (3.75mm) needles.
  • TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE.

Free knitting pattern: Basketball Shoes booties by Helga Spitz (excerpted with permission from Classic Kicks for Little Feet: 16 Knitted Shoe Styles for Baby's First Year) via Underground Crafter | shoes on skateboardSole

  • With white, cast on 32 sts. Divide sts evenly over 4 needles (8 sts per needle). Join, taking care not to twist sts, and place marker for beg of rnd (back of shoe).
  • Work in garter st in rnds (purl 1 rnd, knit 1 rnd) as follows:
  • Rnd 1: Purl.
  • Rnd 2: Needle 1: K1, M1, knit to end; Needle 2: Knit to last st, M1, k1; Needle 3: K1, M1, knit to end; Needle 4: Knit to last st, M1, k1—1 st inc’d on each needle; 4 sts inc’d in total.
  • Repeat last 2 rnds 3 times more—12 sts per needle; 48 sts in total.
  • With white, purl 4 rounds, knit 1 round.
  • Cut white.

Shoe

  • Join navy. Purl 1 round. Cut navy.

Toe

  • Sl first 5 sts on Needle 2 to Needle 1; sl first 7 sts on Needle 3 to Needle 2; sl rem 5 sts on Needle 3 to Needle 4—17 sts each on Needles 1 and 4, 14 sts on Needle 2.
  • Keeping sts of Needles 1 and 4 on hold, join red from RS and work in rows on Needle 2 as follows:
  • Rows 1–4: Work in St st in rows (knit on RS, purl on WS).
  • Row 5: K2, k2tog, k6, k2tog, k2—12 sts.
  • Rows 6, 8, and 10: Purl.
  • Row 7: K2, k2tog, k4, k2tog, k2—10 sts.
  • Row 9: Knit.
  • Row 11: K2, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k2—8 sts.
  • Row 12: Purl.
  • Bind off all sts.

Sides and Back

  • Set-up row 1: (RS) With RS facing and first ball of royal blue, pick up and k 1 st in each of last 2 red sts of toe, then k2 sts from Needle 4; with navy, k30 sts from Needles 4 and 1; with 2nd ball of royal blue, k last 2 sts on Needle 1, then pick up and k 1 st in each of first 2 sts of toe—38 sts.
  • Note: Do not carry unused yarns. When changing colors, twist yarns on WS to prevent holes in work.
  • Row 2: (WS) With royal blue, k4; with navy, purl to last 4 sts; with royal blue, k4.
  • Continue to work first and last 4 sts in garter st (knit every row) with royal blue and center sts in stockinette stitch with navy, as follows:
  • Dec row 3: (RS) With royal blue, k4; with navy, k2tog, k to last 2 navy sts, k2tog; with royal blue, k4.
  • Row 4: Work even in pats.
  • Dec/eyelet row 5: With royal blue, k2, yo, k2tog (eyelet); with navy, K2tog, k to last 2 navy sts, k2tog; with royal blue, k2tog, yo, k2 (eyelet).
  • Row 6: Repeat row 4.
  • Repeat rows 3–6 for 3 times more.
  • Cut navy. With 1 ball of royal blue, knit 4 rows over all sts.
  • Bind off as follows: *K2tog, return st to LH needle; rep from * until all sts are bound off.

Finishing

  • Sew sole seams. Weave in ends.

Shoelace

  • With crochet hook and white, chain 100.
  • Fasten off.
  • Thread shoelace through eyelet holes.

Repeat from beginning for second shoe.

Giveaway

Classic Kicks for Little Feet: 16 Knitted Shoe Styles for Baby's First Year by Helga Spitz giveaway via Underground CrafterNow that you’ve read my review of Classic Kicks for Little Feet: 16 Knitted Shoe Styles for Baby’s First Year by Helga Spitz and tried out the Basketball Shoes, are your ready to win your own copy?

By entering this giveaway, you are voluntarily submitting information to Rafflecopter. You can read their privacy policy here for more details about how that information is used. This giveaway is open to readers with mailing addresses in the United States and Canada, except where prohibited by law. Enter by 11:59 p.m. Eastern on Tuesday, October 30, 2018. One winner will be chosen at random from the entries submitted via the Rafflecopter widget. The winner will receive 1 copy of Classic Kicks for Little Feet by Helga Spitz, courtesy of Sixth & Spring. Good luck!

a Rafflecopter giveaway

Monster Hats by Vanessa Mooncie Book Review with Alien hat Pattern

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | Monster Hats book coverIf you enjoy giving quirky gifts, the knitting pattern collection by Vanessa Mooncie that I’m reviewing today will be right up your alley! I’m also sharing an excerpted pattern for the unisex Alien hat from the book, so read on for details!

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links. A free review copy of Monster Hats: 15 Scary Head Warmers to Knit by Vanessa Mooncie was provided to me by GMC Publications. Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.

Book Review

Monster Hats: 15 Scary Head Warmers to Knit by Vanessa Mooncie is a fun, knitting pattern collection. All of the patterns are available in both child and adult sizes.

The book opens with an introduction from Vanessa, who took her inspiration from comic books and mythology. This is a very visual book, so the next 16 pages are pictures of the hats being worn by kids and teens who look to be having a lot of fun. The first section is Make the Monsters, which includes patterns for all 15 hats. Each pattern includes a detailed materials list, the completed project sizes, and the tension (gauge) used for the pattern. Within each pattern, there is a introduction to the monster, zany illustrations, and several large pictures of the hat being worn. Each pattern starts with “method,” which explains the construction, and ends with “making up,” which explains how to add various pieces to the finished hat.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | Alien hat on modelAfter the patterns, there is an Other Things You Need to Know chapter that includes:

  • Getting Started, with tips on sizing, tension (gauge), needles and notions, substituting yarn, and reading patterns and charts;
  • Knitting Basics. with written and illustrated instructions for the slip knot, 3 cast on methods, knit and purl stitches, knitting into the front or back loop, 3 types of increases, making loops (usually used for “hair”), casting off, and 4 seaming methods;
  • Finishing Touches, with written and illustrated instructions for twisted and striped cords, tassels, and 4 embroidery stitches;
  • Fleece Linings, with instructions and a template for making a fleece lining for your hats;
  • Knitted Linings, with detailed instructions for making knitted linings for each hat; and
  • Appendices for knitting needle sizes, pattern abbreviations, and a list of materials (yarn suppliers).

The book’s layout is just as unconventional as the patterns and it mixes illustrations, writing, and typed text to great effect. The book doesn’t list difficulty levels, but many of the hats could be successfully made by advanced beginners with patience. Several of the patterns are more suited to intermediate knitters. If you like knitting hats, and if you like making something different from the “typical” hat pattern, try out Monster Hats. I think you’ll like it!


Alien

Knitting Pattern by  Vanessa Mooncie

Published in Monster Hats: 15 Scary Head Warmers to Knit

Pattern and Photos © 2016 Vanessa Mooncie and GMC Publications Ltd. Shared with permission from GMC Publications Ltd.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | Alien hat flat layNotes from Underground Crafter:

  • This pattern uses Craft Yarn Council knitting abbreviations. A full list of abbreviations is available here.
  • Video tutorials the special stitches are linked below.
    • Kfb tutorial by Deramores is available here.
    • C4B tutorial by New Stitch a Day is available here.
    • C4F tutorial by New Stitch a Day is available here.
    • K2tog tutorial by Deramores is available here.
    • Psso tutorial by Very Pink Knits is available here.
    • K2togtbl tutorial by ChemKnits is available here.
  • One of the yarns used in this pattern has been discontinued. You can find a list of recommended substitutes for Wendy Serenity Chunky here.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | Alien hat on modelThis monster is out of this world, featuring a cable design down the centre of the head, and embroidered details to enhance the glistening gaze of the bug-eyed alien.

Materials

  • Wendy Serenity Chunky, 70% acrylic, 20% alpaca, 10% wool (87yd/80m per 100g ball): 1[1] ball in 3205 Oyster (A)
  • Wendy Supreme Luxury Cotton DK, 100% cotton (219yd/201m per 100g ball): 1[1] ball in 1949 Poppy Red (B)
  • Twilleys of Stamford Goldfingering, 80% viscose, 20% metalized polyester (109yd/100m per 25g ball): 1[1] ball in 38 Red (C)
  • Oddment of DK yarn in black (D)
  • 1 pair each of 4mm (UK8:US6), 6mm (UK4:US10) and 7mm (UK2:US10.5/11) knitting needles
  • Cable needle
  • Small amount of toy stuffing
  • 2 x 6in (15cm) long pipe cleaners
  • Blunt-ended tapestry needle

Sizes

  • To fit: child, up to 20in (51cm) head circumference [adult, up to 22in (56cm) head circumference]

Tension (Gauge)

  • 13 sts and 18 rows to 4in (10cm) over stocking stitch using 7mm needles and A. Use larger or smaller needles if necessary to obtain correct tension.

Special abbreviations

  • C4B: Sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at back of work, k2, k2 from cable needle
  • C4F: Sl 2 sts onto cable needle and hold at front of work, k2, k2 from cable needle

Method

  • The hat is started with a wide rib. A cable design is worked in the centre of the main piece, knitted in stocking stitch. The shaping of the eyes is begun by slipping the first stitch and turning the work before the last stitch of each row, working one less stitch each time. The shaping is finished by knitting into one extra stitch at the end of each row, until all the stitches are back on the same needle. These are stuffed, stitched to the hat and finished with embroidery in duplicate stitch. The antennae are made from knitted strips covering pipe cleaners. These are topped with a knitted button. The lower ends of the antennae are stuffed to help them stand up on the hat. The nostrils are two duplicate stitches embroidered onto the rib of the hat.

Main section

  • With 6mm needles and A, cast on 59[63] sts.

Child size only

  • Row 1 (RS): K1, (p2, k3) to last 3 sts, p2, k1.
  • Row 2 (WS): P1, (k2, p3) to last 3 sts, k2, p1.
  • Rows 3–4: As rows 1–2.

Adult size only

  • Row 1 (RS): (K3, p2) to last 3 sts, k3.
  • Row 2 (WS): (P3, k2) to last 3 sts, p3.
  • Rows 3–4: As rows 1–2.

Both sizes

  • Change to 7mm needles.
  • Next row (RS) (inc): K4[6], (kfb, k9) 5 times, kfb, k4[6] (65[69] sts).
  • Next row: Purl.

Adult size only

  • Next row: Knit.
  • Next row: Purl.

Both sizes

  • Work in cable pattern as follows (see chart below):
  • Row 1: K27[29], p1, C4B, k1, C4F, p1, k27[29].
  • Row 2: P27[29], k1, p9, k1, p27[29].
  • Row 3: K27[29], p1, k9, p1, k27[29].
  • Row 4: As row 2.
  • Rows 5–16: Rep rows 1–4 3 more times.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | cbart with Alien hat on modelShape crown

  • Row 1 (RS) (dec): K2tog, k10[11], sl1, k2tog, psso, k10[11], k2tog, p1, C4B, k1, C4F, p1, k2togtbl, k10[11], sl1, k2tog, psso, k10[11], k2togtbl (57[61] sts).
  • Row 2 (WS): P23[25], k1, p9, k1, p23[25].
  • Row 3 (dec): K2tog, k8[9], sl1, k2tog, psso, k8[9], k2tog, p1, k9, p1, k2togtbl, k8[9], sl1, k2tog, psso, k8[9], k2togtbl (49[53] sts).
  • Row 4: P19[21], k1, p9, k1, p19[21].
  • Row 5 (dec): K2tog, k6[7], sl1, k2tog, psso, k6[7], k2tog, p1, C4B, k1, C4F, p1, k2togtbl, k6[7], sl1, k2tog, psso, k6[7], k2togtbl (41[45] sts).
  • Row 6: P15[17], k1, p9, k1, p15[17].
  • Row 7 (dec): K2tog, k4[5], sl1, k2tog, psso, k4[5], k2tog, p1, k9, p1, k2togtbl, k4[5], sl1, k2tog, psso, k4[5], k2togtbl (33[37] sts).
  • Row 8: P11[13], k1, p9, k1, p11[13].
  • Row 9 (dec): K2tog, k2[3], sl1, k2tog, psso, k2[3], k2tog, p1, C4B, k1, C4F, p1, k2togtbl, k2[3], sl1, k2tog, psso, k2[3], k2togtbl (25[29] sts).
  • Row 10: P7[9], k1, p9, k1, p7[9].
  • Row 11 (dec): K2tog, k0[1], sl1, k2tog, psso, k0[1], k2tog, p1, k9, p1, k2togtbl, k0[1], sl1, k2tog, psso, k0[1], k2togtbl (17[21] sts).

Adult size only

  • Row 12: P5, k1, p9, k1, p5.
  • Row 13 (dec): K2tog, k1, k2tog, p1, C4B, k1, C4F, p1, k2togtbl, k1, k2togtbl (17 sts).

Both sizes

  • Break yarn and thread through rem sts, draw up tight and fasten off.

Eyes (make 2)

  • Slip all stitches p-wise.

Shape eyelid

  • With 4mm needles and B, cast on 10[12] sts.
  • Row 1 (RS): Purl.
  • Row 2 (WS) (inc): Kfb k to last st, kfb (12[14] sts).
  • Row 3 (inc): Sl1, p to last st, sl1.
  • Row 4 (inc): As row 2 (14[16] sts).
  • Row 5: Purl.

Eyeball

  • Join and cont in B and C, used together.
  • Row 6 (WS): Sl1, p12[14], turn.
  • Row 7: Sl1, k11[13], turn.
  • Row 8: Sl1, p10[12], turn.
  • Row 9: Sl1, k9[11], turn.
  • Row 10: Sl1, p8[10], turn.
  • Row 11: Sl1, k7[9], turn.

Adult size only

  • Row 12: Sl1, p8, turn.
  • Row 13: Sl1, k7, turn.

Both sizes

  • Next row: Sl1, p7, pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ptog with the next st to prevent a hole appearing in the work, turn.
  • Next row: Sl1, k8, pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ktog with the next st, turn.
  • Next row: Sl1, p9, pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ptog with the next st, turn.

Adult size only

  • Next row: Sl1, k10, pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ktog with the next st, turn.
  • Next row: Sl1, p11, pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ptog with the next st, turn.

Both sizes

  • Shape lower edge of eye
  • Next row: Sl1, k10[12], change to yarn A, pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ktog with the next st, turn.
  • Cont with yarn A.
  • Next row: Sl1, p11[13], pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ptog with the next st, turn.
  • Next row: Sl1, p12[14], pick up the horizontal loop before the next st and ptog with the next st, turn.
  • Cast off k-wise, leaving a long length of yarn A at the end.

Antennae (make 2)

  • With 4mm needles and A, cast on 12[15] sts.
  • Starting with a k row, work 5 rows in st st.
  • Cast off k-wise, leaving a long length of yarn at the end.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | Alien hat antenna detailAntennae tip

  • With 4mm needles and yarns B and C held together, cast on 7 sts.
  • Starting with a p row, work 11 rows in rev st st, finishing on a RS row. Cast off k-wise, leaving a long length of yarn B at the end.

Making up

  • Join the back seam with mattress stitch (see below for tutorial).

Eyes

  • Sew each eye in place at an angle, with the shaped eyelid at the top, positioning them just above the ribbing and overlapping the edges of the cable design. Stitch neatly around the edges, leaving an opening to insert the stuffing before closing. Use the duplicate stitch technique (see below for tutorial) and D to embroider a line up the central knit stitches of the eyes.

Nose

  • Embroider the nose in D, working one duplicate stitch for each nostril on the ribbing.

Antennae

  • Fold each pipe cleaner in half and twist the two halves together. Turn under the sharp edges and place one twisted pipe cleaner in the centre of the wrong side (purl side) of each knitted strip. Fold the strip around the pipe cleaner, bringing the long edges together. Use the length of yarn left after casting off to sew the edges together, encasing the pipe cleaner. Sew together the cast-on and cast-off edges of the tip of the antennae to form a tube. Gather the open edges at each end and work a few stitches through the centre, from one side to the other, to flatten the piece, forming a button shape. Stitch the knitted buttons to the top of the antennae. Use the end of a knitting needle to push a small amount of stuffing firmly into the first 3/4in (2cm) of the open end of each antenna. This will help them to stand upright when attached to the hat. Sew the antennae in place, halfway between the eyes and the top of the hat. Weave in all the yarn ends.

Lining

Fleece linings

Add a lining to your monster hat to make it even cosier. Choose a fabric with some stretch that feels soft to the touch, in a contrasting or a matching colour.

Fabric lining materials

  • 22 x 22in (56 x 56cm) [25 x 25in (63.5 x 63.5cm)] of stretch fabric, such as polar fleece or jersey
  • Matching thread
  • Needle
  • Dressmaking pins
  • Squared pattern paper
  • Pencil
  • Scissors

Method

  1. Scale the pattern template to size, transferring all the markings onto the paper. Cut out the pattern, following the continuous line. Seam allowances of 5⁄8in (1.5cm) are included in the pattern. Place the pattern on the folded fabric, ensuring that the fold indicated on the pattern is placed exactly on the fold of the fabric. Pin the pattern in position and cut out the fabric.
  2. Stitch the darts indicated on the pattern template. Cut to within 1⁄2in (1.25cm) of the point of the dart and press open. With right sides together, pin and stitch the main seam, allowing for a 5⁄8in (1.5cm) seam. Trim the seam and cut notches in the curve, taking care not to cut into the stitching.
  3. Turn under the hem and pin the lining to the inside of the hat, just above the knitted edging or the ribbing, with the main seam of the lining at the centre back of the hat. Ease the fabric evenly around the lower edge. Slip stitch in place by hand. Work a few stitches through the top of the crown into the knitted hat to keep the lining in place.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | adding fleece liningKey for both charts

  • 1 square = 3⁄8in (1cm)
  • 5⁄8in (2.5cm) seam allowance is included

CHART

  • Adult lining cut 1

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | adult's lining chart

  • Child lining cut 1

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | child's lining chart

  • Stitch main seam, trim seam and cut notches in the curve.
  • Stitch darts

Knitted linings

A knitted lining is a cosy alternative to the fleece lining. It can be worked in the same shade as the monster hat, or you can choose a contrast colour. As the earflap facings are worked into the knitted lining pattern, omit them where applicable from the pattern when knitting the hat. The lining is stitched in place after the features are added to the main part of the hat. If twisted cords are to be attached to the earflaps, the knitted lining should go in first.

Materials

  • Approximately 50g yarn for Pop-eyes; 100g yarn for other monster hats (A)
  • See chosen monster hat pattern for required needle sizes
  • Stitch holder
  • Blunt-ended tapestry needle

Sizes

  • To fit: child, up to 20in (51cm) head circumference [adult, up to 22in (56cm) head circumference]

Tension

  • See chosen monster hat pattern for required tension.

Method

The knitted lining is worked in the same yarn as the hat you are making: refer to the pattern for the yarn type, needles required and tension. The earflap facings are worked first, where applicable. The main part of the lining is then continued in stocking stitch. The back seam is joined and the lining slipped inside the hat and stitched in place. Then finish with twisted cords and tassels, if using.

Alien, Fluffball, Skull, Slug, Troll and Zombie

  • Using A and 8mm needles for Fluffball or 7mm needles for Alien, Skull, Slug, Troll and Zombie, cast on 61[65] sts.
  • Starting with a knit row, work in st st for 18[20] rows, ending with a WS row.

Shape crown

  • Row 1 (RS) (dec): K2tog, (k12[13], sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times, k12[13], k2tog (53[57] sts).
  • Row 2: Purl.
  • Row 3 (dec): K2tog, (k10[11], sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times, k10[11], k2tog (45[49] sts).
  • Row 4: Purl.
  • Row 5 (dec): K2tog, (k8[9], sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times, k8[9], k2tog (37[41] sts).
  • Row 6: Purl.
  • Row 7 (dec): K2tog, (k6[7], sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times, k6[7], k2tog (29[33] sts).
  • Row 8: Purl.
  • Row 9 (dec): K2tog, (k4[5], sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times, k4[5], k2tog (21[25] sts).
  • Row 10: Purl.
  • Row 11 (dec): K2tog, (k2[3], sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times, k2[3], k2tog (13[17] sts).

Adult size only

  • Row 12: Purl.
  • Row 13 (dec): K2tog, (k1, sl1, k2tog, psso) 3 times, k1, k2tog (9 sts).

Both sizes

  • Break yarn and thread through rem sts, draw up tight and fasten off.

Making up

  • Join the back seam with mattress stitch (see below). With WS together, pin the lining in place inside the main part of the hat and slip stitch neatly around the lower edges. For the Alien, Blob, Fluffball, Skull, Troll and Zombie, slip stitch the lower edge of the lining to the first row of stocking stitch after the rib on the main part, or after the garter stitch edging if making the Slug. Work a few stitches into the top of the crown to stop the lining slipping.

Mattress stitch

  • The mattress stitch produces an invisible seam that is suitable for stocking stitch fabric. It produces a neat finish, ideal for joining the seam at the back of the hats.
  • Place the two edges to be joined side by side with the right sides of the work facing you. Insert the needle under the horizontal bar between the first two stitches on one side, then under the same bar on the other piece. Continue picking up the stitches and drawing the edges together, every few stitches, to join the seam.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | mattress stitch illustrationDuplicate stitch

  • Insert the needle from the back to the front of the work at the base of the ‘V’ formed by the knitted stitch that you want to embroider over. At the front of the work, insert your needle behind both arms of the stitch above it and pull the yarn through.Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | duplicate stitch illustration 1
  • Insert the needle back through the pointwhere it first emerged to cover the knitted stitch.

Free knitting pattern: Alien hat by Vanessa Mooncie via Underground Crafter | duplicate stitch illustration 2

Very British Toddler Knits by Susan Campbell Book Review with Mouse Scarf Pattern

Very British Toddler Knits cover via Underground CrafterI’m delighted to share my review of a knitting pattern collection by Susan Campbell, along with an excerpted pattern for the adorable, child-sized Mouse Scarf, and a giveaway for your chance to win the copy of her book, so read on for details!

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links. A free review copy of Very British Toddler Knits: 25 Classic Designs for 1 to 6 Year Olds by Susan Campbell was provided to me by Search Press North America. Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.

Book Review

Very British Toddler Knits: 25 Classic Designs for 1 to 6 Year Olds is a delightfully presented pattern collection by Susan Campbell. I liked this book from the moment I opened it because on the cover flap, there are rulers printed in both inches and centimeters. What a cool idea and a great way to get started with your garment knitting journey (by checking your gauge, that is!).

The book opens with a Table of Contents which is followed by a Project Gallery with small photos of each project. In Susan’s introduction, she mentions that she is a mother, stepmother, grandmother, or stepgrandmother to 27, so she is a veteran in the design of baby clothes. She says, “I’ve been designing small person’s knitwear for a very long time — no design of mine will have to be squeezed over a child’s head and no baby will have to be stripped almost naked to facilitate a nappy change.” I loved that she emphasized the practicality of her designs because they are also beautiful!

The book then continues on to the patterns, which are organized into five collections. The first four are named for locations and Susan provides some historical background about each in the introduction to the collection. There are two collections designed for girls and two collections designed for boys. The fifth collection is a set of mice toys with outfits that coordinate with each of the four children’s clothes collections.

Each collection includes the introduction to the collection, several full page, beautifully staged and photographed pictures of children (or mice toys!) dressed in the full collection. This is followed by the individual patterns, which include sizes by age and measurements, recommended yarn and needles, a list of extras (such as buttons), and the tension (gauge). The patterns list any special abbreviations at the top of each pattern. Within each pattern, there are additional smaller photos of the designs.

The book includes the following types of patterns for children:

  • 6 cardigans,
  • 4 hats and headbands,
  • 3 jumpers (sweaters),
  • 2 dresses (each with instructions for knitted or fabric skirts),
  • 2 scarves,
  • 1 gilet (hooded vest), and
  • 1 bag.

There is also the amigurumi mice pattern, which includes 2 dresses, 2 jumpers (sweaters), 2 trousers (pants), and a jacket to coordinate with the children’s clothes.

The book ends with Size Diagrams, which includes illustrated schematics for each of the children’s garments and accessories; Finishing Touches, which provides written and illustrated instructions for making covered buttons, bias binding, embroidery stitches (lazy daisy, French knot, and stem stitch), and buttonhole loops; a list of pattern abbreviations; and acknowledgements.

The book doesn’t include pattern difficulty levels, but I would described it as best for intermediate knitters, although a confident and adventurous beginner could make most of the projects in Very British Toddler Knits. The book assumes you know how to knit and read patterns; it’s a pattern collection, not an instructional book. The designs are adorable and the photography is inspiring. If you like to knit for toddlers, I think you’ll get a lot of inspiration from this book.


Mouse Scarf

Knitting Pattern by Susan Campbell

Published in Very British Toddler Knits: 25 Classic Designs for 1 to 6 Year Olds

Pattern and Photos © 2018 Quail Publishing. Shared with permission from Search Press North America.

Free knitting pattern: Mouse Scarf by Susan Campbell - excerpted from Very British Toddler Knits with permission from Search Press via Underground CrafterNotes from Underground Crafter:

  • This pattern uses Craft Yarn Council knitting abbreviations. A full list of abbreviations is available here.
  • Video tutorials for many of the increases and decreases are linked below.
    • M2 tutorial by JennyKnits is available here.
    • M1 tutorial by Deramores is available here.
    • Skpo tutorial by Deramores is available  here.
    • K2tog tutorial by Deramores is available here.
  • A mattress stitch seaming tutorial is available here.
  • A French knot embroidery tutorial is available here.
  • This pattern uses a super fine (#1/fingering/4 ply) yarn held double (two strands together).
  • The finished scarf measures 93 cm (36.5”) long, excluding mouse head and tail.
  • This pattern is part of the Hampton collection in Very British Toddler Knits.

Size

  • One size – child 1–6 years

Yarn

  • Rowan Pure Wool 4 ply
  • 3 x 50g/1.75oz balls in main colour (Snow)
  • 1 x 50g/1.75oz ball in pale pink for mouth scraps of grey for nose

Needles

  • Pair each of 3mm (US 2/3) and 4.5mm (US 7) knitting needles
  • Pair each of 3mm (US 2/3), 3.5mm (US 4) and 4mm (US 6) double-pointed needles

Extras

  • 2 buttons, beads or safety eyes (for very small children work eyes and nose in coloured yarn)

Tension (Gauge)

  • 28 sts and 36 rows to 10cm/4in square 20 sts and 37 rows to 10cm/4in square over garter st with 4.5mm (US 7) needles and yarn held double

Warning

  • Never leave a young child alone wearing a scarf.

Free knitting pattern: Mouse Scarf by Susan Campbell - excerpted from Very British Toddler Knits with permission from Search Press via Underground CrafterScarf

  • Work with 2 strands and in garter st, throughout.
  • Using 4.5mm (US 7) needles and 2 strands of MC, cast on 4 sts.
  • Row 1 M2 into fi rst st, K1, M2 into next st, K1. 8 sts
  • K 3 rows.
  • Row 5 K1, M2 into next st, K3, M2 into next st, K2. 12 sts
  • K 3 rows
  • Row 9 K2, M2 into next st, K5, M2 into next st, K3. 16 sts
  • K 3 rows.
  • Row 13 K3 inc twice into next st K7, inc twice into next st K4. 20 sts
  • K 3 rows.
  • Cont in this way, inc 4 sts on next and every foll 4th row until there are 44 sts.
  • Next row K2tog, K to last 2 sts, K2tog. 42 sts.
  • Rep last row until 22 sts remain.
  • Work straight until scarf measures 86cm/34in or required length.
  • Cast off 2 sts at beg of each row until 6 sts remain.
  • Slip these 6 sts onto 4mm (US 6) double-pointed needles and work an I-cord.
  • To make an I-cord K to end of row.
  • *Slide the sts to the right-hand side of the needle. Pull yarn taut and K another row. *
  • Rep from * to * until the ‘tail’ is 18cm/7in long.
  • Change to 3.5mm (US 4) double-pointed needles and work I-cord for another 4cm/1½in.
  • Change to 3mm (US 2/3) double-pointed needles and work I-cord until the tail measures 32cm/12½in or required length. P6tog.
  • Fasten off.

Lower Jaw

  • With 4.5mm (US 7) needles and 2 strands of MC, cast on 4 sts.
  • Working in garter st, inc 1 st at each end of every 4th row until there are 22sts.
  • K 11 rows straight.
  • Cast off.

Mouth

  • With 4.5mm (US 7) needles and 2 strands of pink yarn, cast on 4 sts.
  • Working in garter st, inc 1 st at each end of every 4th row until there are 12 sts.
  • Next row P.
  • Next row K.
  • Next row P.
  • Working in garter st, dec 1 st at each end of next and every 4th row until 4 sts remain.
  • K 3 rows.
  • Cast off.

Outer Ears (make 2)

  • With 4.5mm (US 7) needles and 2 strands of main yarn cast on 5 sts.
  • Row 1 K1, M1 into next 2 sts, K2. 7 sts
  • Row 2 P2, M1 into next 2 sts, P3. 9 sts
  • Row 3 M1 into first st, K6, M1 into next st, K1. 11 sts
  • Row 4 M1 into first st, P8, M1 into next st, P1. 13 sts
  • Row 5 K1, [M1 into next st, K2] to end of row. 17 sts
  • Work 7 rows in st st.
  • Row 13 [Skpo] twice, K9, [K2tog] twice. 13 sts
  • Row 14 P.
  • Row 15 Skpo, K7, K2tog K2. 11 sts
  • Row 16 P.
  • Row 17 Skpo, K1, K3tog, K1, K2tog, K2. 7 sts
  • Row 18 P.
  • Row 19 Skpo, K3, K2tog. 5 sts
  • Row 20 P.
  • Cast off.

Inner Ears (make 2)

  • With 3.25mm (US 3) needles and 1 strand of pink yarn, cast on 5 sts.
  • Row 1 K1, M1 into next 2 sts, K2. 7 sts
  • Row 2 P2, M1 into next st, P3. 9 sts
  • Row 3 M1 into first st, K6, M1 into next st, K1. 11 sts
  • Row 4 M1 into first st, P8, M1 into next st, P1. 13 sts
  • Row 5 K1, [M1 into next st, K2] to end of row. 17 sts
  • Row 6 P1, [M1 into next st, P2] to last st. P1. 22 sts
  • Work 8 rows in st st.
  • Row 15 [Skpo] twice, K14, [K2tog] twice. 18 sts
  • Row 16 P.
  • Row 17 [Skpo] twice, K10, [K2tog] twice. 14 sts
  • Row 18 P.
  • Row 19 Sk2po, K7, [K2tog] twice. 10 sts
  • Row 20 P.
  • Row 21 Skpo, K6, K2tog. 8 sts
  • Row 22 P.
  • Row 23 Skpo, K4, K2tog. 6 sts
  • Row 24 P.
  • Cast off.

To Make Up

  • Fold the mouth in two and, using mattress st, sew the top half to the nose end of the main piece.
  • Sew the bottom half to the lower jaw.
  • Using mattress st, sew the sides of the bottom jaw to the sides of the head.
  • Using mattress st, sew the inner and the outer ears together and sew the ears into place.
  • Sew beads/buttons into place for eyes, or use black yarn and French knots.
  • With grey yarn and satin stitch, sew the nose.
  • Sew whiskers into place each side of nose by using yarn and knotting it each side of the face.
  • Using mattress st, sew the tail decrease together so that it tapers into the tail.

Giveaway

Very British Toddler Knits giveaway via Underground Crafter - enter through October 15, 2018 for your chance to win a copyNow that you’ve read my review of Very British Toddler Knits: 25 Classic Designs for 1 to 6 Year Olds by Susan Campbell and tried out the Mouse Scarf, are your ready to win your own copy?

By entering this giveaway, you are voluntarily submitting information to Rafflecopter. You can read their privacy policy here for more details about how that information is used. This giveaway is open to readers with mailing addresses in the United States, Canada, United Kingdom, or other parts of Europe, except where prohibited by law. Enter by 11:59 p.m. Eastern on Monday, October 15, 2018. One winner will be chosen at random from the entries submitted via the Rafflecopter widget. The winner will receive 1 copy of Very British Toddler Knits, courtesy of Search Press North America. Good luck!

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How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament | Craft Lightning Hot Glue

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground CrafterAre you looking for a quick gift for your favorite yarn lover, or perhaps something to announce your own love of yarn to the world? I’m sharing a tutorial for how to make a handmade yarn with knitting needles ornament. With just a few supplies, including leftover yarn from your last crochet or knitting project, you can make this easy peasy ornament in less than 15 minutes!

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground Crafter - finished project in handThis project is part of Craft Lightning Hot Glue edition.

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links. Yarn for this project was generously provided by Red Heart. A free review copy of Hot Glue Hacks and Crafts: 50 Fun and Creative Decor, Fashion, Gift, and Holiday Projects to Make with Your Glue Gun by Angie Holden and Carolina Moore was provided to me by Ulysses Press. Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.

Before I share the tutorial, let me tell you a little about me and hot glue.

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground Crafter - finished project styled with artifical trees and jingle signGrowing up, I had three main creative influences:

  • My dad, who is a painter and photographer. He taught me basic painting and drawing skills.
  • My maternal grandmother, who was an expert in all things needlecrafts. She taught me to crochet, sew, and embroider, and tried to teach me to knit, too. From time to time, we’d do some other crafts, like latch hooking.
  • My mom, who is a masterful seamstress and can flip beat up old furniture into like-new beauties. She would decoupage from time to time, too.

Nowhere in my childhood did I experience hot glue. As a relatively clumsy teen and then adult, I continued to avoid it. It seemed like I’d be tempting fate to put heat and glue anywhere near my flesh.

Then, in January, I went to Creativation, the annual trade show for the crafts industry. Before the event officially kicks off, Angie from The Country Chic Cottage and Carolina from Always Expect Moore and 30 Minute Crafts host a night out for crafts bloggers. They had a hot glue project planned, and they patiently took me from life as a hot glue newbie into the world of the anointed.

I didn’t burn myself (or anyone else) and I was pleasantly surprised by the results (and the speed). I’m sharing this story because Angie and Carolina recently came out with a book for hot glue newbies and pros alike! It’s kind of like having them both there with you, so if you’re intrigued by hot glue, pick yourself up a copy of Hot Glue Hacks and Crafts: 50 Fun and Creative Decor, Fashion, Gift, and Holiday Projects to Make with Your Glue Gun!

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground Crafter - Hot Glue Hacks and Crafts book coverHot Glue Hacks and Crafts starts off with Glue Gun Basics, which tells you everything you need to know about different types of glue guns, glue, and accessories, while also sharing some great tips like how to avoid those little strings of glue that seem to trail off everywhere. The rest of the book is filled with projects, which are organized by type (for kids, home decor, holiday, jewelry, and entertaining). There’s also a Glue Gun Hacks section which shows you how to make stencils, stamps, molds, and faux geodes with hot glue, as well as how to etch with hot glue. This section includes a project for making your own stand, too, which is really helpful (and safer) if your glue gun didn’t come with a stand. There are also templates in the back for some of the projects.

My favorite projects in the book are the lampshade, the stencils, and the stamped pillow. All of the projects include detailed progress pictures — just like what you’d expect to see in a blog tutorial — so even when the project isn’t something you plan to make, you can still pick up some hot glue tips and tricks. If you’d like to have the ability to make some quick handmade gifts for friends and family (and yourself), but also to learn how to really maximize your hot glue gun, I highly recommend Hot Glue Hacks and Crafts!

As you might have guessed by now, the book is the inspiration behind this edition of Craft Lightning, where a group of bloggers share 15 minute craft projects. Here’s what I made with my glue gun!

Shop Red Heart, America's Favorite Yarn

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament

Tutorial by Underground Crafter

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground CrafterNow that you know where to get more information if you’re a hot glue newbie like I was just a few short months ago, let’s dive into the project! This yarn and knitting needles ornament works up quickly and it’s great for decoration or a gift. I got all the supplies I needed at Michaels using the Buy Online, Pick Up in Store option.

Materials

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground Crafter - supplies

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground Crafter - finished project on wood with jingle sign

Instructions

Prepare the knitting needles

  • Split one dowel in half. I used a scissor to make indents around the center and then cracked it in half, but you could also use a small craft saw.
  • Using the pencil sharpener, sharpen one end of each piece of the dowel to a point, like a knitting needle.

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground Crafter - sharpening dowel to make knitting needles

  • Preheat your glue gun.

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground Crafter - hot glue gun

  • Glue the beads to the un-sharpened end of each piece of the dowel and let dry.

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground Crafter - making knitting needles from dowel and beadHow To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground Crafter - glued beads to needles

Attach the knitting needles to the ornament

  • Glue the first knitting needle to the ornament and let dry.

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground Crafter - glued first knitting needle

  • Glue the second knitting needle to the ornament so it appears to cross the first, by actually doesn’t touch it. Let dry.

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground Crafter - glued knitting needles

Wrap the ornament with yarn

  • Glue the starting tail of the yarn to the ornament. Let dry.

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground Crafter - glued yarn tail before wrap

  • Wrap the yarn around the ornament, starting by covering the knitting needles, and being careful not to cover the ornament loop. Continue wrapping until the entire ornament is covered.
  • Cut the yarn and glue the ending tail of the yarn to the ornament on the back. Let dry.

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground Crafter - glued yarn tail after wrap

That’s it!

How To Make a Handmade Yarn with Knitting Needles Ornament with Hot Glue - tutorial by Underground Crafter - finished project styled with jingle signI’d love to figure out a way to make a crochet hook version that doesn’t involve whittling wood. If you have any suggestions for making a mini crochet hook, let me know!

If you enjoyed this project, you may like my DIY Locking Stitch Markers for Crochet and Knitting tutorial.

DIY Locking Stitch Markers for Crochet and Knitting Tutorial by Underground Crafter | Make your own custom stitch markers with supplies from Oriental Trading! I used the Dia de los Muertos enamel charms to add color and an autumn feel to this set.