Granny Square Crochet Bible Book Review with Blue Skies Hexie Cardigan Pattern

I’m sharing a book review of a granny square reference book, along with a crochet hexagon cardigan pattern. As part of the Third Edition of Granny Square Month, you can also enter for your chance to win my review copy!

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links. David and Charles provided me with a free review copy of The Granny Square Crochet Bible: Everything You Need to Know about How to Crochet Granny Squares by Lynne Rowe (available online through independent booksellers or on Amazon). Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.

This post is part of the Third Edition of Granny Square Month, a 30-day celebration of crochet motifs, granny stripes, and granny stitches. To follow along with Granny Square Month:

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Book Review: The Granny Square Crochet Bible

The Granny Square Crochet Bible: Everything You Need to Know about How to Crochet Granny Squares by Lynne Rowe (available online through independent booksellers or on Amazon) is a granny square reference book. In the Introduction, Lynne shares her love of the traditional granny square. In How To Use This Book, newbies are introduced to granny square fundamentals while more experienced crocheters are invited to explore the variations, projects, and finishing techniques available throughout the book. This section notes that all patterns are written using US crochet pattern abbreviations. Tools and Materials shares information about yarn, hooks, and notions for creating granny squares and related projects. In Granny Square Anatomy, Lynne outlines the parts of a granny square. In The Granny Square Stitch, Lynne provides detailed written instructions with photos for working the granny stitch flat in rows. She also shares tips for improving your granny stitch over time. In All About Size, Lynne discusses the different elements that make up project size, including yarn weight, hook size, and gauge/tension. The Gauge section includes more details about gauge as well as troubleshooting tips for when your gauge is off in patterns where it is important. In Charts, Lynne introduces international stitch symbols and shares tips for reading charts.

The next chapter is Getting Started. This section includes five classic granny motifs (a multi-color and a single-color square, a triangle, a hexagon, and an octagon). Each motif is introduced for beginners, including detailed written instructions, step-by-step photos, and an international stitch symbol chart, as well as tips for success. Following each motif pattern, you’ll find a Stitch It! pattern for a project made using that shape of motif. These patterns include an introduction and materials list, finished measurements, and written instructions. All of the patterns include multiple, full-page photographs showing different details. The chapter ends with a Troubleshooting section which addresses common motif challenges such as uneven edges, not laying flat or losing shape, and having a large hole in the center. The next chapter is Variations on Granny Motifs. This section also includes five motifs (a solid granny square, a daisy flower square, a circle in the square, a puff stitch square, and a half-and-half/two-color square) and follows a similar format to the previous chapter above, beginning with detailed instructions for the square and followed by a pattern for a project using that square.

Using Color explores color theory and provides tips for “creating harmonious color palettes.” In Joing Techniques, Lynne provides written instructions with photos for six joins including the whipstitch, mattress stitch, single crochet seam, slip stitch seam, join-as-you-go, and double crochet join-as-you-go. In Borders, Lynne provides written and charted instructions for three borders (double crochet, shell stitch, and moss stitch) and a stretchy ribbed edge.

The final chapter, Techniques, includes a list of pattern abbreviations; a US to UK crochet abbreviation conversion chart; information about turning chains, including a US/UK chart listing the number of turning chains for different stitches; written and illustrated instructions for the slip knot, joining new colors with a slip stitch, starting with a chain ring or magic ring, joining in the round, the invisible fasten off, weaving in ends, making tassels, blocking, basic crochet stitches (chain, slip stitch, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, treble crochet), where to place your hook (“regular,” into a chain space, between stitches, in between groups of stitches, back loop only, front loop only, and back bump of a stitch), and decreases and special stitches (sc2tog, 3tr-cl, puff stitch). The book closes with an About the Author, acknowledgements, a list of yarn suppliers, and an index.

The Granny Square Crochet Bible: Everything You Need to Know about How to Crochet Granny Squares by Lynne Rowe (available online through independent booksellers or on Amazon) is written with a granny square beginner in mind. There are lots of photographs and the book is designed very well with lots of vibrant colors and illustrations. It is a paperback, which makes crocheting while reading a bit challenging. If you’re new-ish to crochet and want to make some of the trending granny square projects or, if you’re a granny square lover who’d like to improve your techniques, this may be the book for you. Don’t forget to stop by the main Granny Square Month blog post by July 6, 2025 to enter the giveaway for your chance to win a copy of The Granny Square Crochet Bible: Everything You Need to Know about How to Crochet Granny Squares by Lynne Rowe (available online through independent booksellers or on Amazon)! Read on for an excerpted crochet hexagon cardigan pattern from the book.

Blue Skies Hexie Cardigan

Crochet Hexagon Cardigan Pattern by Lynne Rowe

Reprinted from The Granny Square Crochet Bible: Everything You Need to Know about How to Crochet Granny Squares by Lynne Rowe with permission from David and Charles. Text and Designs © Lynne Rowe 2025. Layout and Photography © David and Charles, Ltd 2025.

Start your handmade wardrobe with this stylish cardigan. You can use the colors listed or choose your favorite colors to create your own unique version. It’s much easier to make than it looks, as it’s based on two hexagon motifs. It’s a slouchy style and very comfy to wear, and when people ask you where you got it from, you can proudly say that you made it yourself.

Notes from Underground Crafter

  • This pattern uses standard US crochet pattern abbreviations. You can find a master list here.
  • Stitches n Scraps has a helpful video tutorial demonstrating the invisible fasten off here.
  • You can find a video tutorial for a whipstitch join below.
  • If you can’t see the video for seaming with the whipstitch above, watch it on YouTube.
  • Fiber Flux has a helpful video tutorial for identifying the back loop in crochet here.
  • A helpful video tutorial for the sc2tog decrease is available below.

You Will Need

Yarn

  • Scheepjes Scrumptious (50% polyester; 50% acrylic), light worsted (DK) weight, 328yd (300m) per 31/2oz (100g) ball
    • Color 1: 1 ball of Buttercream Icing (302)
    • Color 2: 1 ball of French Blue Macaron (343)
    • Color 3: 1 ball of Raspberry Rock Candy (335)
    • Color 4: 1 ball of Raspberry Mousse (307)
    • Color 5: 1 ball of Coconut Spirulina Cheesecake (342)
    • Color 6: 1 ball of Butterfly Pea Flower Mousse (352)
    • Color 7: 1 ball of Cotton Candy Meringue (330)
    • Color 8: 1 ball of Concord Grape Pie (356)
    • Color 9: 1 ball of Coconut Blueberry Muffins (378)
    • Color 10: 1 ball of Turkish Delight (331)

Hook

  • US G/6 (4mm) crochet hook

Extras

  • Removable stitch marker
  • Yarn needle

Gauge/tension

  • 10.5 rounds and 5 pattern repeats of [3dc, ch1] measure 4 x 4in (10 x 10cm) using US G/6 (4mm) hook and Scheepjes Scrumptious.

Finished measurements

To Fit Chest:

  • 32–34 (36–38) (40–42) (44–46) (48–50) (52–54)in
  • 81–87 (91–97) (102–107) (112–117) (122–127) (132–137)cm

Approx Chest Measurements:

  • 43 (47) (50) (53) (56) (61)in
  • 111 (119) (127) (135) (142) (155)cm

Approx Upper Arm Depth:

  • 7 (7) (8) (8) (8.5) (8.5)in
  • 18 (18) (19.5) (19.5) (21) (21)cm

Side Seam:

  • 10 (101/2) (11) (12) (12.5) (13.5)in
  • 24.5 (26.5) (28) (30) (32) (34.5)cm

Pattern Notes

  • A variation on the granny hexagon is used, working 3dc-groups with ch1-sps throughout, instead of 2dc-groups. This creates a hexagon that doesn’t sit flat. This is required in order to achieve an L-shaped piece for each half.

Pattern Begins

Body Section

  • (make 2)
  • Using Color 1, ch5, slst in first of these 5 ch to form a ring. Alternatively, you can start with a magic ring.
  • You will now work Round 1 into the ring you have made.
  • Place a removable stitch marker into the center of the ring so you know where to put your hook for Round 1.
  • Round 1 (RS): Ch3 (counts as 1dc throughout) 2dc in ring, ch2, [3dc in ring, ch2] 5 times, slst in third ch of beginning ch-3. (6 3dc- groups, 6 ch2-sps)
  • Fasten off with invisible fasten off (see Notes from Underground Crafter).
  • Round 2 (RS): Join Color 2 with slst in any ch2-sp, ch3, [2dc, ch2, 3dc] in same ch2-sp, ch1, [3dc, ch2, 3dc, ch1] in each ch2-sp to end, slst in third ch of beginning ch-3. (12 3dc-groups, 6 ch2-sps, 6ch1-sps)
  • Fasten off with invisible fasten off.
  • Round 3 (RS): Join Color 3 with slst in any ch2-sp, ch3, [2dc, ch2, 3dc] in same ch2-sp, ch1, [3dc, ch1] in each ch1-sp to next corner ch-sp, *[3dc, ch2, 3dc] in next corner ch-sp, ch1, [3dc, ch1] in each ch1-sp to next corner ch-sp, slst in third ch of beginning ch-3. (18 3dc- groups, 6 ch2-sps, 12 ch1-sps)
  • Fasten off with invisible fasten off.
  • Rounds 4–21 (21, 23, 23, 25, 25): Rep Round 3, in following color sequence:
  • Round 4 (RS): Color 4.
  • Round 5 (RS): Color 1.
  • Round 6 (RS): Color 5.
  • Round 7 (RS): Color 6.
  • Round 8 (RS): Color 7.
  • Round 9 (RS): Color 1.
  • Round 10 (RS): Color 8.
  • Round 11 (RS): Color 9.
  • Round 12 (RS): Color 10.
  • Color sequence is set by Rounds 1–12.
  • Rounds 13–21 (21, 23, 23, 25, 25): Rep Round 3, following color sequence as set, ending with 21 (21, 23, 23, 25, 25) 3dc-groups along each side.
  • Fasten off with invisible fasten off, weave in ends on wrong side.

Folding

  • Number each corner of your hexagon in order, from 1 to 6 around in a clockwise direction. Fold corner 1 to meet corner 2, fold corner 4 to meet corner 5, and fold corner 3 to meet corner 6. This will create an L-shaped piece for each half of the body.
  • Fold the hexagon as in the diagram above to make an “L” shape.
  • Next, sew along one of the long edges, to create the shoulder/sleeve seam, using whip stitch (see Notes from Underground Crafter). Repeat for the other piece, mirroring the seam.
  • If you place each piece side-by-side, you will see the arms and body taking shape.
  • Continue both sides alike following the instructions to lengthen and widen the body.

Body Lengthening and Widening

  • Keeping color sequence correct, and with right side facing, join next color yarn in any ch-sp in line with side seam. You will now work around only three sides of piece.
  • Round 1 (RS): Ch3, 2dc in same ch-sp, 3dc in each ch-sp around, slst in third ch of beginning ch-3.
  • Fasten off with invisible fasten off.
  • Rounds 2–4 (6, 6, 8, 8, 12): Rep Round 1 a further 3 (5, 5, 7, 7, 11) times, maintaining color sequence.
  • You’ll have 25 (27, 29, 31, 33, 37) rounds on both front and back.

Center Back Widening

  • On left piece place a stitch marker in ch-sp in line with shoulder seam. Join next color to opposite end of center back seam, in opposite corner ch-sp to marker. (24 (26, 28, 30, 32, 36) ch1-sps between markers)
  • Row 1 (RS): Ch3, 1dc in same corner sp, ch1, [3dc, ch1] in each ch-sp to marked sp, 2dc in marked sp.
  • Fasten off. Do not turn work.
  • Row 2 (RS): Join next color to top of beginning ch-3 of previous row, ch4 (counts a 1dc, ch1), [3dc, ch1] in first ch-sp, [3dc, ch1] in each ch-sp to last 2 dc, skip 1 dc, 1dc in last dc.
  • Fasten off. Do not turn work.
  • Row 3 (RS): Join next color to third ch of beginning ch-4 of previous row. Ch3, 1dc in same st, ch1, skip first ch-sp and first 3dc-group, [3dc, ch1] in each ch-sp to last ch-sp, skip last ch-sp, 2dc in last dc.
  • Fasten off. Do not turn work.
  • Row 4 (RS): Rep Row 2.
  • Rep Center Back Widening on second piece then join center back seam with whip stitch (see Notes from Underground Crafter).

Edging

  • Using next color in sequence, with right side facing, join Color 1 with slst in bottom corner st of left front.
  • It is not necessary to count your stitches for the edging rounds. If you place stitches as instructed, your edging will sit nice and flat.
  • Foundation round (RS): Ch1 (does not count as a st), [2sc, ch2, 2sc] in same st, 1sc in each dc to opposite end of hem (skipping the ch1-sps), work [2sc, ch2, 2sc] in corner ch2-sp. Now work along front edges and neck, as follows: 1sc in each dc and 1sc in each ch1-sp to row-ends of center back, work 2sc in each of the first 4 row-ends, 1sc in center back joining seam, then 2sc in each of the next 4 row-ends, then continue as before with 1sc in each dc and 1sc in each ch1-sp to end, slst in first sc to join, slst in next sc and slst in corner ch2-sp.
  • Next round (RS): Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 2dc in same corner sp, 1dcBLO in each st to next corner sp, 3dc in corner sp, 1dcBLO in each st to end, slst in top of beginning ch-3 to join, invisible fasten off.
  • Next round (RS): Join next color in sequence to BLO of center dc of corner stitches. Ch3 (counts as 1dc), 2dc in BLO of same st, 1dcBLO in each st to next corner st, 3dc BLO in corner st, 1dcBLO in each st to end, slst in top of beginning ch-3 to join, invisible fasten off.
  • If desired, you could create a deeper edging, by repeating the last round as many times as required.
  • Weave in ends on wrong side.

Sleeves

  • Round 1 (RS): Join next color yarn to any ch sp, ch3 (counts as 1dc), 2dc in same ch-sp, ch1, [3dc, ch1] in each ch-sp around and in join of shoulder seam, slst in third ch of beginning ch-3. (22 (22, 24, 24, 26, 26) 3dc-groups and ch1-sps)
  • Fasten off with invisible fasten off.
  • Rounds 2–17: Maintaining color sequence, rep Round 1.
  • NOTE: Sleeves can be lengthened or shortened by working more or fewer rows here.
  • Weave in ends on wrong side.

Sleeve Cuffs

  • Foundation round (RS): Join Color 1 to any ch-sp, ch3 (counts as 1dc), work 1sc in each dc (skipping the ch1-sps), slst in third ch of beginning ch-3. 66 (66, 72, 72, 78, 78) sts.
  • Next round (decrease round): Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc in first st, sc2tog, (1sc in next st, sc2tog) to end, slst in first sc. 44 (44, 48, 48, 52, 52) sts.

Sleeve Ribbing

  • Row 1 (RS): Ch15, 1sc in second ch from hook, 1sc in each ch to end, slst in next st of decrease round, slst in following st of decrease round, turn. (14 sc)
  • Row 2 (WS): Skip last 2 slsts, 1scBLO in each st to last st, 1sc in last st, turn.
  • Row 3 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as a st), 1sc in first st, 1scBLO in next 13 sts, slst in next st of decrease round, slst in following st of decrease round.
  • Repeat Rows 2 and 3 around the sleeve edge, until all sts of decrease round are used up.
  • Fasten off.

Finishing

  • Sew up ribbing seam on cuff then weave in ends on wrong side.

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