Knit a Little Book Review with kid’s sweater pattern

Today I’m sharing a review of a knitting pattern book that’s filled with making seamless hats and sweaters for children. I’m also including an excerpted kid’s sweater pattern and a giveaway with the chance to win my review copy, so read on for details.

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links. Page Street Publishing Co. provided me with a free review copy of Knit a Little: 24 Seamless Patterns for Children’s Sweaters and Hats (available through independent booksellers or on Amazon) by Marie Greene. Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.

Book Review: Knit a Little

Knit a Little: 24 Seamless Patterns for Children’s Sweaters and Hats (available through independent booksellers or on Amazon) by Marie Greene from Olive Knits is a collection of kid’s sweater patterns along with hats sized for the whole family.

The book opens with an introduction from Marie, where she shares her experience of “improvising seamless sweaters” for her children, which became a systematic approach by the time her third son was a pre-schooler. Marie shares her love of making seamless projects using both classic and contemporary styles in a conversational tone.

The next section, Seamless Knitting: The Olive Knits Way, Marie provides the type of information that many self-taught knitters yearn to learn. She shares the “why” and “how” of seamless sweater construction, knitting gauge swatches, neckline shaping, deciding on the right size to knit (since children are always growing), and choosing the right yarn for a kid’s sweater pattern. She also explains that while the patterns in the book are “designed for knitters who consider themselves advanced beginner to intermediate skill level,” the Pocket Watch Beanie and the Soundbite Sweater are beginner-friendly projects. (You can see all the included patterns on the book’s Ravelry source page.)

In The ABCs of Yarn Substitutions, Marie provides the ins and outs for substituting yarn, either due to availability, cost, wanting to use what’s in your stash, or preference. Marie talks about details including the ratio of yarn weight to yardage in the skein, washability, and fiber content. In Before You Start Knitting, Marie shares her key tips to remember before you start on the patterns. 

The next several sections include the patterns. The sweaters are organized into Simple Textures with five patterns, Quick Cardigans with three patterns, and Colorful Prints with four patterns. The hats are included in the Beanies for the Whole Family with 12 patterns. Each sweater pattern is available in six or seven sizes from infant sizes up to 8-10 years old, and all include a link to a matching adult sized pattern available for sale on the Olive Knits website. Each hat pattern is available in four to six sizes from infant sizes up to adult sizes and each  hat matches one of the sweater patterns. Each pattern includes an introduction, sizes by ages, yarn (including the weight, recommended brand, fiber content, and yardage/meterage required for each size), needles (which may include different sizes for different sections), gauge, notions, an illustrated schematic with the measurement sections labeled, finished measurements for various parts of the sweater or hat for each size in inches and centimeters. All sweater patterns include pattern notes. The patterns include written instructions using US terms and charts for cables, lace, or colorwork. The patterns include a full page photo of each pattern and some include detail photographs as well. Special stitch patterns are explained at the end of each pattern. 

The next section, Techniques, includes written and illustrated instructions for methods used in the book including four cast-ons (cable cast-on, knitted cast-on, knitted cast-on purlwise, and provisional cast-on), increases and decreases (M1R, M1L, ssk, yo, p3tog, k2tog), and Russian grafting. Blocking covers the “why” and “how” of blocking garments and hats. Abbreviations includes the list of pattern abbreviations. Resources includes the website and country of each yarn manufacturer used in the book. The book closes with Acknowledgements, a list of sample knitters, About the Author, and an index.

Knit a Little: 24 Seamless Patterns for Children’s Sweaters and Hats (available through independent booksellers or on Amazon) is ideal for advanced beginner or intermediate knitters who want to take on sweater knitting for kiddos, who haven’t yet made garments, or who want to explore seamless knitting. The included patterns have an updated classic look. If you want to know more of the “why” behind what you’re doing while knitting and not just the “how,” you’ll also enjoy this book. The book is a compact paperback, which makes it challenging to knit and read at the same time, so you’ll definitely need a bookmark for this one. 

Keep reading for the excerpted kid’s sweater pattern for the Waterfall Sweater in seven sizes and your chance to win my review copy.

Waterfall Sweater

Kid’s Sweater Knitting Pattern by Marie Greene/Olive Knits 

Reprinted from Knit a Little: 24 Seamless Patterns for Children’s Sweaters and Hats (available through independent booksellers or on Amazon) by Marie Greene with permission from Page Street Publishing Co. © Marie Greene 2025. Photo credit: Angela Watts of Tekoa Rose Photography.

This sweater began with a quote from Bruce Lee, “Water can flow or it can crash. Be water, my friend.” It’s been through several iterations since it first leapt onto my needles, but I’m delighted to reimagine it once again for little ones. The waterfall panel reminds me of long road trips with our boys, with scenic waterfall stops along the way. To be honest, they were mostly potty breaks and a chance to stretch our legs, but the scenery was a welcome bonus. The center panel is a clever arrangement of increases and decreases—no cables required!

For the grown-up version, see Stillwater.

Sizes

• 0−6 mo (6−12 mo, 1−2 yrs, 2−4 yrs, 4−6 yrs, 6−8 yrs, 8−10 yrs) referred to as sizes 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7) throughout pattern

Yarn

• DK weight | Berroco Ultra Wool (available online at LoveCrafts | Jimmy Beans) | 100% superwash wool | 292 yards (267 meters) in 3.5 oz (100 grams) | 280 (310, 320, 450, 520, 700, 730) yards / 256 (283, 293, 411, 475, 640, 667) meters

Needles

• Body: US Size 4 (3.5 mm) 16−24-in (40−60-cm) circular needle
• Sleeves: US Size 4 (3.5 mm) 12-in (30-cm) circular needle or DPNs
• Bottom Ribbing: US Size 3 (3.25 mm) 16−24-in (40−60-cm) circular needle
• Neckline: US Size 3 (3.25 mm) 12−16-in (30−40-cm) circular needle or DPNs
• Sleeve Cuffs: US Size 3 (3.25 mm) DPNs

Gauge

• 22 st and 26 rows in 4 in (10 cm) in stockinette stitch with largest needle, blocked

Notions

• Darning needle, stitch markers, waste yarn

Finished Measurements

• A) Chest Circumference: 18.5 (19.75, 21.25, 22.75, 24.25, 26.5, 27.75) in 47 (50, 57, 58, 61.5, 67.5, 70.5) cm − blocked
• B) Length of Lower Body from Underarm: 6 (6.5, 7, 8.5, 10, 12, 14) in 15.5 (16.5, 18, 21.5, 25.5, 3.5, 35.5) cm − prior to blocking
• C) Sleeve Length: 6.5 (7.5, 8.5, 11, 12.5, 13.5, 14.5) in 16.5 (19, 21.5, 28, 32, 34.5, 37) cm − blocked
• D) Sleeve Circumference: 7.25 (8, 8.5, 8.75, 9, 9.5, 10.5) in 18.5 (20.5, 21.5, 22.5, 23, 24, 26.5) cm − blocked

Pattern Notes 

• You will begin at the neckline, working from the top down in one piece. Though this pattern is knit in the round, you will begin working flat with the back/shoulders as you increase on each side of the front neckline. When the front neckline shaping is completed, you will join to work in the round and will continue in the round from there.
• About markers: Markers are labeled to make them easier to differentiate. Markers A, B, C, and D will mark the raglan “seams” or increase sections that separate the front, sleeves, and back. Markers Y and Z will mark the front chart design.

Notes from Underground Crafter

• This pattern uses standard US knitting abbreviations. You can find a full list here. Additional abbreviations and special stitches and cast ons are outlined below.
• BOR – beginning of round/row
• Cast ons: Olive Knits has a cable cast-on video here, a cast-on knitwise video here, and a cast-on purlwise video here.
• Increases: B.Hooked has a helpful video for the M1R and M1L increases here. Blue Mouse Knits has a helpful video for the yo increase here.
• Decreases: Very Pink Knits has a helpful video for the ssk decrease here.A helpful video tutorial for the k2tog is below.

• If you can’t see the k2tog video above, click HERE to watch it on YouTube.

Pattern Instructions 

• With US Size 4 (3.5 mm) 16−24-inch (40−60- cm) circular needle CO 44 (50, 50, 54, 50, 54, 64) stitches using the cable cast-on method. Do not join in the round yet.
• Due to the neckline shaping, you may notice that some larger sizes begin with fewer stitches—this is intentional.
• Set-Up Row 1: K2, pmA, K10 (12, 12, 12, 10, 10, 14), pmB, k20 (22, 22, 26, 26, 30, 32), pmC, K10 (12, 12, 12, 10, 10, 14), pmD, k2.
• Set-Up Row 2: Purl the row, slipping markers as you go.
• Row 1 (RS): K1, M1R, k1, smA, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mB, M1R, k1, smB, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mC, M1R, k1, smC, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mD, M1R, k1, smD, k1, M1L, k1 (8 st inc).
• Row 2 (WS): Purl to end of row, slipping markers as you go.
• Row 3 (RS): K to 1 st before mA, M1R, k1, smA, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mB, M1R, k1, smB, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mC, M1R, k1, smC, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mD, M1R, k1, smD, k1, M1L, k to end (8 st inc).
• Row 4 (WS): Purl to end of row, slipping markers as you go.
• Row 5 (RS): CO 1 st using knitted cast-on method worked knitwise, k to 1 st before mA (including newly cast-on st), M1R, k1, smA, K1, M1L, k to 1 st before mB, M1R, k1, smB, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mC, M1R, k1, smC, K1, M1L, k to 1 st before mD, M1R, k1, smD, k1, M1L, k to end (8 st inc + CO).
• Row 6 (WS): CO 1 st, using knitted cast-on method worked purlwise, purl to end of row (including newly cast-on st), slipping markers as you go.
• Going forward, all stitches cast on at the start of the row will be worked in the same manner as established in rows 5 and 6.
• Row 7 (RS): CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) st, k to 1 st before mA, M1R, k1, smA, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mB, M1R, k1, smB, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mC, M1R, k1, smC, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mD, M1R, k1, smD, k1, M1L, k to end (8 st inc + CO).
• Row 8 (WS): CO 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2) st, purl to end of row, slipping markers as you go.
• Row 9 (RS): CO 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) st, k to 1 st before mA, M1R, k1, smA, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mB, M1R, k1, smB, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mC, M1R, k1, smC, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mD, M1R, k1, smD, k1, M1L, k to end (8 st inc + CO).
• Row 10 (WS): CO 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2) st, purl to end of row, slipping markers as you go.
• Row 11 (RS): CO 3 st, k to 1 st before mA, M1R, k1, smA, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mB, M1R, k1, smB, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mC, M1R, k1, smC, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mD, M1R, k1, smD, k1, M1L, k to end (8 st inc + CO).
• Row 12 (WS): CO 3 st, purl to end of row, slipping markers as you go.
• Row 13 (RS): CO 5 (7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 13) st, k to 1 st before mA, M1R, k1, smA, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mB, M1R, k1, smB, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mC, M1R, k1, smC, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mD, M1R, k1, smD, k1, M1L, k to end (8 st inc + CO).

Join Neckline

• Cut yarn, leaving a tail to weave in later. As you join to work in the round, you will reposition your stitches by sliding the stitches after mD to the left needle so that the BOR will now begin at mD. The stitches after mD and before mA (when combined) are the front neckline and will be joined across as you work the next round.
• Do not worry that you have a gap from the join, as this will disappear when you finish the neckline. You can use the tail to weave it closed.
• Rejoin the yarn at mD to create a new BOR (from this point forward, the BOR will start at the raglan edge and you will work the sweater sections right to left in this order: neckline (mD to mA), left sleeve (mA to mB), back (mB to mC), right sleeve (mC to mD)).
• The reason you cut the yarn and rejoin at mD is to allow you to complete one full row before you join the round. Moving the yarn and the BOR to the marker allows you to work full rounds going forward, so that when you reach the end of a line of instruction you have also completed one full round of your knitting. If you do not move the working yarn to the new BOR, this will not be the case.
• Knit 1 round (no increases) to join your work.
• Remember: Your round should now begin at mD.

Stitch Count Check-In

•  Front: 35 (37, 37, 41, 41, 45, 47)
• Sleeves (ea): 24 (26, 26, 26, 24, 24, 28)
• Back: 34 (36, 36, 40, 40, 44, 46)

Begin Waterfall Chart

• Next Round (inc): K1, M1L, k5 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 11), pmY, work Waterfall Chart Round 1 (over 23 st), pmZ, k5 (6, 6, 8, 8, 10, 11), M1R, k1, smA, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mB, M1R, k1, smB, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mC, M1R, k1, smC, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mD, M1R, k1 (8 st inc).
• Next Round (no inc): K to mY, smY, work Waterfall Chart Round 2, smZ, k the remainder of the round, slipping markers as you go.
• Next Round (inc): K1, M1L, k to mY, smY, work Waterfall Chart next round, smZ, k to 1 st before mA, M1R, k1, smA, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mB, M1R, k1, smB, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mC, M1R, k1, smC, k1, M1L, k to 1 st before mD, M1R, k1 (8 st inc).
• Next Round (no inc): K to mY, smY, work Waterfall Chart next round, smZ, k the remainder of the round, slipping markers as you go.
• Repeat these two rounds, working through the chart rounds 1−13 and repeating them again in order, until you have the following number of stitches:

Stitch Count Check-In

• Front: 51 (55, 59, 63, 67, 73, 77)
• Sleeves (ea): 40 (44, 48, 48, 50, 52, 58)
• Back: 50 (54, 58, 62, 66, 72, 76)

Waterfall Chart Written

• Round 1: P2, k3, p3, k3, p1, k3, p3, k3, p2.
• Round 2: P2, yo, k2, ssk, p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k2tog, k2, yo, p2.
• Round 3: P2, k4, p2, k3, p1, k3, p2, k4, p2.
• Round 4: P2, k1, yo, k2, ssk, [p1, k3] twice, p1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, p2.
• Round 5: P2, k5, [p1, k3] twice, p1, k5, p2.
• Round 6: P2, k2, yo, k2, ssk, k3, p1, k3, k2tog, k2, yo, k2, p2.
• Round 7: P2, k9, p1, k9, p2.
• Round 8: P2, k3, yo, k2, ssk, k2, p1, k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, p2.
• Round 9: P2, k3, [p1, k5] twice, p1, k3, p2.
• Round 10: P2, k3, p1, yo, k2, ssk, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, k3, p2.
• Round 11: P2, k3, p2, k4, p1, k4, p2, k3, p2.
• Round 12: P2, k3, p2, yo, k2, ssk, p1, k2tog, k2, yo, p2, k3, p2.
• Round 13: Repeat round 1.

Divide for Sleeves

• K to mY, work Waterfall Chart next round, smZ, k to mA, remove marker and place the stitches from mA to mB onto waste yarn (loosely), removing mB in the process. The left sleeve stitches are now on waste yarn.
• Continue knitting across the back section to mC (as you do this it will join the front section to the back), remove mC, then place the stitches between mC and mD onto waste yarn (loosely). The right sleeve stitches are now on waste yarn. Keep mD to mark the BOR. You have now separated the sleeves from the body and will work the remainder of the lower body in the round without increases.

Stitch Count Check-In

• 101 (109, 117, 125, 133, 145, 153) 

Lower Body

• Starting at BOR, k to mY, smY, work Waterfall Chart next round, smZ, k to end of round. Repeat this round until lower body measures approximately 5 (5.5, 6, 7, 8.5, 10.5, 12.5) in / 13 (14, 15.5, 18, 21.5, 26.5, 32) cm.
• Transition to US Size 3 (3.25 mm) 16−24-inch (40−60-cm) circular needle and knit 1 round (removing the markers around the chart on this round), decreasing 1 st using k2tog. You may work this decrease anywhere you prefer (I recommend near the side).
• Begin ribbing as follows: [K2, p2] rep bet brackets to end of round.
• Rep the ribbing round until ribbing measures 1 (1, 1, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5) in / 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 3.75, 3.75, 3.75, 3.75) cm. Bind off in pattern with medium loose tension.

Sleeves 

• With US Size 4 (3.5 mm) 12-inch (30-cm) circular needle or DPNs and with a new strand of working yarn, return stitches from the first sleeve to your needles and knit 1 round – 40 (44, 48, 48, 50, 52, 58) st. 
• Don’t worry if you have a little gap under the arm—you can weave this closed later with the tail of your newly-joined yarn.
• Place a marker at the center of the underarm to mark your BOR.
• Decrease Round: K1, k2tog, k to 3 st before m, ssk, k1 (2 st dec).
• Knit the sleeve in the round, working a decrease round as established approximately every 1.25 (1, 1.5, 2.25, 2.25, 3, 1.75) in / 3.25 (2.5, 3.75, 5.5, 5.5, 7.5, 4.5) cm until the sleeve measures 5.5 (6.5, 7.5, 9.5, 11, 12, 13) in / 14 (16.5, 19, 24.5, 28, 30.5, 33) cm and you have 32 (32, 36, 40, 40, 44, 44) st.
• If you reach the stitch count before the stated length, continue knitting in the round (without decreases) until you reach the correct length before you continue.
• Transition to US Size 3 (3.25 mm) DPNs and knit 1 round, then begin cuff ribbing as follows: [K2, p2] rep bet brackets to end of round. Continue in ribbing until cuff measures 1 (1, 1, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5) in / 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 3.75, 3.75, 3.75, 3.75) cm. Bind off in pattern with medium loose tension.
• Repeat these instructions for the second sleeve.

Neckline

•  Close the gap at the neckline join with a darning needle by using the tail that remains at the front of the neckline. Draw the tail thread over the gap and down through the next stitch (crossing the gap) and pull it tight, weaving it neatly on the WS until it’s secure. 
• With US Size 3 (3.25 mm) 12−16-inch (30−40-cm) circular needle, pick up stitches around the neckline, ending with a multiple of 4. Begin your neckline ribbing over the right shoulder.
• Work the neckline ribbing as follows: [K2, p2] rep bet brackets to end of round. Repeat this round until ribbing measures 1 (1, 1, 1, 1.5, 1.5, 1.5) in / 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 3.75, 3.75, 3.75) cm. Bind off in pattern with medium tension. Neckline should not be restrictive—if it is, bind off more loosely.

Finishing

• Use a darning needle to weave in ends and close any gaps under the arms, as needed. Wet block and lay flat to dry.

Giveaway

Knit a Little: 24 Seamless Patterns for Children’s Sweaters and Hats by Marie Greene from Olive Knits and trying out the kid’s sweater pattern for Waterfall, you’re probably ready to get your hands on this book! You can buy it now through independent booksellers or on Amazon, or enter the giveaway below by 11:59 pm Eastern on Sunday, September 28, 2025 for your chance to win my review copy. While my copy of the book was provided by Page Street Publishing Co., the giveaway is organized by Underground Crafter. Enter using any of the options on the opopter widget below. One winner will be chosen from the entries at random to win my review copy of the book. Winner will be contacted within 1 week after the entries close. Winner will have 3 days to claim the prize. If winner does not respond within 3 days, prize will be awarded to an alternate. By entering this giveaway, you are agreeing to share your contact information with Rafflecopter and/or Underground Crafter. You can read the Rafflecopter Privacy Policy here and the Underground Crafter Privacy Policy here to understand how this information is used. This giveaway is open worldwide, except where prohibited by law. Good luck!