50 Knitted Dolls Book Review with Skateboarder knitting pattern

If you love to knit adorable dolls, you’ll want to check out my review of a knitting pattern book for fifty cute characters that each measure about 6” (15 cm). My review also includes an excerpted knitting pattern for the Skateboarder, so read on for details!

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links. GMC Publications provided me with a free review copy of 50 Knitted Dolls by Sarah Keen. Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.

Book Review

50 Knitted Dolls by Sarah Keen is a collection of fifty dolls that each measure about 6” (15 cm). The book opens with a short introduction by Sarah and then dives right into the patterns. Each pattern includes a materials list. The patterns are made with DK (US: light or #3 weight) yarn and yarn requirements are listed by color, not brand, so it’s easy to substitute. Fellow haters/fearers of double pointed needles (DPNs) will be happy to know the patterns are knit flat and seamed. Each pattern also includes the Finished Size, Tension (gauge), and reference to the Abbreviations used (including the page number). Each pattern includes instructions for making the doll, its wardrobe, and any accessories like wands or tennis rackets. Finally, the patterns include instructions for Making Up (also known as assembly).

The book concludes with the Techniques section. In this section, you’ll find information about yarn; safety advice (as many of the project contain small pieces which may present a danger for infants and toddlers); information about tension; written and illustrated instructions for creating a slip knot, casting on with the long tail method, the knit and purl stitches (with photographs of several stitch combinations), decreasing and increasing, working in color with both Fair Isle and intarsia methods, casting (binding) off, and several embroidery stitches helpful for embellishment; and a list of pattern abbreviations.   

Some of my favorite things about this book…

• Each pattern includes multiple pictures of each doll against a white background, including front, back, and side views. Not only are these adorable and fun to look at, but it helps you to understand how the final 3D project will look.
• The flaps on the front and back cover. While this is a paperback, the flaps help you to keep track of the pages you are working from, even though the book doesn’t lay flat while you’re reading.
• The patterns. The various characters are so cute! There are great ideas for all children including a variety of professions (nurse, farmer, firefighter, postman, etc.), seasonal characters (Santa and Mrs Clause, pilgrims), and childhood dress up favorites (superheros, fairy, pirates).

As with all pattern collections, if you don’t like the patterns, there isn’t much to like about the book. While there is no Ravelry page for the collection, you can see many of the designs on the front cover. If you like to knit dolls, or to knit for children, check out 50 Knitted Dolls!

Skateboarder

Knitting Pattern by Sarah Keen

Published in 50 Knitted Dolls

Text © Sarah Keen, 2017. Copyright in the Work © GMC Publications Ltd, 2017. Shared with permission from GMC Publications.

Notes from Underground Crafter

• This pattern uses standard UK knitting pattern abbreviations. You can find a list of these abbreviations here, along with the differences in terms between US and UK/Canada abbreviations.
• This pattern uses 4 special stitches.
  • K2tog – knit 2 stitches together (decrease) – Fiber Flux has a helpful video tutorial for this stitch here.
  • Kfb – knit front and back (increase) – New Stitch a Day has a helpful video tutorial for this stitch here.
  • M1 – make 1 (increase) – Very Pink Knits has a helpful video tutorial for this stitch here.
  • P2tog – purl 2 stitches together – Fiber Flux has a helpful video tutorial for this stitch here.
• A helpful tutorial for seaming with the mattress stitch is available here.
• This pattern uses several embroidery stitches for embellishment. You can find helpful video tutorials for the back stitch, chain stitch, and running stitch used in the Skateboarder at the end of this blog post.  

Materials

• Any DK (US: light worsted) yarn (amounts given are approximate):
  • 5g royal blue (A)
  • 5g pale pink (B)
  • 5g white (C)
  • 5g deep red (D)
  • 5g grey (E)
  • 5g brown (F)
  • 10g khaki green (G)
  • 5g black (H)
  • 5g ginger (I)
• Oddments of black, red and ginger for embroidery
• 1 pair of 3.25mm (UK10:US3) needles and a spare needle of the same size
• Knitters’ pins and a blunt-ended needle for sewing up
• Tweezers (optional)
• Acrylic toy stuffing
• A red pencil for shading cheeks
• Small piece of thick cardboard

Finished size

• Skateboarder stands 6in (15cm) tall

Tension

• 26 sts x 34 rows measure 4in (10cm) square over st-st using 3.25mm needles and DK yarn before stuffing

How to make Skateboarder

Shoes, legs, body and head

Right leg

• Using the long tail method and A for shoe, cast on 14 sts.
• Place a marker on cast-on edge between the 5th and 6th st of the sts just cast on.
• Row 1 (WS): Purl.
• Row 2: K2, (m1, k2) to end (20 sts).
• Rows 3 to 5: Beg with a p row, work 3 rows in st-st.
• Row 6: K2, (k2tog) 6 times, k6 (14 sts).
• Row 7: P7, p2tog, p1, p2tog, p2 (12 sts).
• Rows 8 to 21: Change to B for leg and work 14 rows in st-st.
• Break yarn and set aside.

Left leg

• Using the long tail method and A for shoe, cast on 14 sts.
• Place a marker on cast-on edge between the 9th and 10th st of the sts just cast on.
• Row 1 (WS): Purl.
• Row 2: K2, (m1, k2) to end (20 sts).
• Rows 3 to 5: Beg with a p row, work 3 rows in st-st.
• Row 6: K6, (k2tog) 6 times, k2 (14 sts).
• Row 7: P2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, p7 (12 sts).
• Rows 8 to 21: Change to B for leg and work 14 rows in st-st.

Join legs

• Row 22: Change to C for lower body and with RS facing, k across sts of left leg then with the same yarn cont k across sts of right leg (24 sts).
• Rows 23 to 27: Beg with a p row, work 5 rows in st-st.
• Rows 28 to 37: Change to D for upper body and work 10 rows in st-st.
• Rows 38 and 39: Change to B for head and work 2 rows in st-st.
• Row 40: K2, (m1, k4) to last 2 sts, m1, k2 (30 sts).
• Rows 41 to 49: Beg with a p row, work 9 rows in st-st.
• Row 50: (K2tog, k1) to end (20 sts).
• Row 51: Purl.
• Row 52: (K2tog) to end (10 sts).
• Thread yarn through sts on needle and leave loose.

Trousers

First leg

• Beg at lower edge using the long tail method and E, cast on 21 sts.
• Row 1 (RS): Purl.
• Rows 2 to 12: Beg with a p row, work 11 rows in st-st.
• Rows 13 and 14: Cast off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows (17 sts).
• Break yarn and set aside.

Second leg

• Work second leg as for first leg but do not break yarn.

Join legs

• Row 15: With RS facing, k across sts of second leg then with the same yarn cont k across sts of first leg (34 sts).
• Rows 16 to 20: Beg with a p row, work 5 rows in st-st.
• Cast off.

Arms and hands (make 2) 

• Beg at shoulder using the long tail method and B, cast on 4 sts.
• Row 1 (WS): Purl.
• Row 2: K1, (m1, k1) to end (7 sts).
• Row 3: Purl.
• Row 4: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1 (9 sts).
• Rows 5 and 6: Rep rows 3 and 4 once (11 sts).
• Rows 7 to 17: Beg with a p row, work 11 rows in st-st.
• Row 18: K2tog, (k1, k2tog) to end (7 sts).
• Thread yarn through sts on needle, pull tight and secure by threading yarn a second time through sts.

Hair

• Using the long tail method and F, cast on 30 sts and work in g-st, RS facing to beg.
• Rows 1 to 14: Work 14 rows in g-st.
• Row 15: (K2tog, k1) to end (20 sts).
• Row 16: Knit.
• Row 17: (K2tog) to end (10 sts).
• Row 18: Knit.
• Thread yarn through sts on needle, pull tight and secure by threading yarn a second time through sts.

Hoodie

• Note: Sleeves are worked first and knitted into body.

Sleeves (make 2)

• Beg at cuff using the long tail method and G, cast on 12 sts and beg in rib.
• Row 1 (WS): (K1, p1) to end.
• Row 2: As row 1.
• Row 3: P3, (m1, p2) to last st, p1 (16 sts).
• Rows 4 to 10: Beg with a k row, work 7 rows in st-st, finishing with a RS row.
• Row 11: Cast off 3 sts pwise, p9, cast off rem 3 sts pwise and fasten off (10 sts).
• Set aside.
• Rep second sleeve as for first sleeve and set aside.

Front and back

• Using the long tail method and G, cast on 38 sts and beg in rib.
• Row 1 (WS): (K1, p1) to end.
• Row 2: As row 1.
• Row 3: Purl.
• Join on D and work in stripes, carrying yarn loosely up side of work.
• Rows 4 and 5: Using D, work 2 rows in g-st.
• Rows 6 and 7: Using G, k 1 row then p 1 row.
• Rows 8 to 11: Rep rows 4 to 7 once.
• Row 12: Knit.

Divide for armholes

• Row 13: P8, cast off 4 sts pwise, p13, cast off 4 sts pwise, p7 (30 sts).

Join sleeves

• Row 14: With RS of all pieces facing, k8 from left back, k10 from one sleeve, k14 across front, k10 from other sleeve, k8 from right back (50 sts).
• Row 15: P6, (p2tog) twice, p6, (p2tog) twice, p10, (p2tog) twice, p6, (p2tog) twice, p6 (42 sts).
• Row 16: K5, (k2tog) twice, k4, (k2tog) twice, k8, (k2tog) twice, k4, (k2tog) twice, k5 (34 sts).

Divide for front opening

• Row 17: P15, k4, p15.

Work left back and left front

• Row 18: K4, (k2tog) twice, k2, (k2tog) twice, k3, turn and work on these 13 sts.
• Row 19: K2, p to end.
• Row 20: K4, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k3 (11 sts).
• Row 21: As row 19.

Work left side of hood

• Row 22: (K2, m1) 4 times, k3 (15 sts).
• Row 23: K2, p to end.
• Row 24: Knit.
• Rows 25 to 46: Rep rows 23 and 24, 11 times more.
• Cast off in patt.

Work right front and right back

• Row 47: Rejoin yarn to rem sts and K3, (k2tog) twice, k2, (k2tog) twice, k4 (13 sts).
• Row 48: P to last 2 sts, k2.
• Row 49: K3, k2tog, k2, k2tog, k4 (11 sts).
• Row 50: As row 48.

Work right side of hood

• Row 51: K3, (m1, k2) 4 times (15 sts).
• Row 52: P to last 2 sts, k2.
• Row 53: Knit.
• Rows 54 to 75: Rep rows 52 and 53, 11 times more.
• Cast off in patt.

Skateboard (make 2 pieces: one in H and one in I)

• Using the long tail method and H or I, cast on 20 sts and work in g-st.
• Row 1 (RS): Knit.
• Row 2: K1, m1, k to last st, m1, k1 (22 sts).
• Rows 3 to 6: Rep rows 1 and 2 twice more (26 sts).
• Rows 7 to 10: Work 4 rows in g-st.
• Row 11: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog (24 sts).
• Row 12: Knit.
• Rows 13 to 15: Rep rows 11 and 12 once then row 11 once (20 sts).
• Cast off in g-st.

Wheels (make 2 pieces)

• Using the long tail method and C, cast on 8 sts.
• Row 1 (WS): Purl.
• Row 2: (Kfb) to end (16 sts).
• Rows 3 to 13: Beg with a p row, work 11 rows in st-st.
• Row 14: (K2tog) to end (8 sts).
• Thread yarn through sts on needle, pull tight and secure by threading yarn a second time through sts.

Making up

• Note: Sew up all row-end seams on right side using mattress stitch (see Notes from Underground Crafter) one stitch in from the edge, unless otherwise stated; a one-stitch seam allowance has been allowed for this.

Shoes, legs, body and head

• Sew up row ends of shoes. With markers at tips of toes, oversew cast-on stitches; leg seam will be ¼in (6mm) on inside edge of heel. Place a ball of stuffing into toes. Sew up row ends of legs and sew round crotch. Stuff legs, sew up row ends of body and head, and stuff body and head. Pull stitches on a thread tight at top of head and fasten off. To shape neck, take a double piece of yarn to match body and sew a running stitch round last row of body at neck, sewing in and out of every half stitch. Pull tight, knot yarn and sew ends into neck.

Trousers

• Sew up leg seams of trousers and sew round crotch. Sew up row ends at centre back and place trousers on doll. Sew cast-off stitches of trousers to first row of upper body all the way round.

Arms and hands

• Sew up straight row ends of arms from fingers to underarm and stuff arms using tweezers or tip of scissors. Leaving armholes open, sew arms to body, sewing top of arms to second row below neck at each side.

Features

• Mark position of eyes with two pins on 6th row above neck, spacing two knitted stitches apart. Embroider eyes in black (see instructions at the end of this pattern for how to begin and fasten off the embroidery invisibly), making a small chain stitch (see Notes from Underground Crafter) beginning at marked position and ending on row above, work a second chain stitch on top of first. Embroider mouth in red, making a shallow ‘V’ shape on the 2nd and 3rd rows below eyes. Shade cheeks with a red pencil.

Hair

• Oversew row ends of hair and place on doll and pull hair down to neck at back. Sew in place using back stitch (see Notes from Underground Crafter) along outside edge.

Hoodie

• Sew up sleeve seams of hoodie and sew across under arm. Sew up row ends of hood at back of head and sew up cast-off stitches across top. Place hoodie on doll and sew up back seam.

Skateboard

• Using piece of thick cardboard, draw round skateboard and cut out shape inside this line. Sandwich cardboard shape between sides of skateboard and oversew round outside edge of skateboard enclosing cardboard inside. Using ginger, embroider chain stitch (see Notes from Underground Crafter) around outside edge of skateboard. Sew up row ends of wheels and stuff wheels using tweezers or tip of scissors. Gather round cast-on stitches of wheels, pull tight and secure. Using white, sew a running stitch (see Notes from Underground Crafter) round centre of wheels to divide into two. Pull tight, wind yarn tightly around centre and knot ends. Sew wheels to underneath of skateboard.

Embroidering features

• To begin embroidery invisibly, tie a knot in the end of the yarn. Take a large stitch through the work, coming up to begin the embroidery. Allow the knot to disappear through the knitting and be caught in the stuffing.
• To fasten off invisibly, sew a few stitches back and forth through the work, inserting the needle where the yarn comes out.

Looking for more knitting inspiration? Check out my review of Sarah’s Topsy-Turvy Knitted Dolls with the Little Red Riding Hood/Wolf in Granny’s Clothing pattern excerpts.