Crochet Yorkshire Terrier by Vanessa Mooncie

I’m excited to share a book review along with an excerpted crochet Yorkie pattern with you today. Read on for more details!

This post contains affiliate links. I may receive compensation (at no added cost to you) if you make a purchase using these links. GMC Publications Ltd provided me with a free review copy of Crocheted Dogs (available through independent booksellers or here on Amazon) by Vanessa Mooncie. Although I accept free products for review, I do not accept additional compensation, nor do I guarantee a positive review. My reviews are based entirely on my honest opinions.

Book Review: Crocheted Dogs

Crocheted Dogs (available through independent booksellers or here on Amazon) by Vanessa Mooncie is a crochet pattern book that includes ten softie amigurumi patterns for dogs. I’ve previously reviewed three other books by Vanessa (Crocheted Animal Rugs, Animal Heads: Trophies to Crochet, and Monster Hats: 15 Scary Head Warmers to Knit) and I really enjoy her creativity.

In the Introduction, Vanessa recommends customizing your versions of the patterns to make “a unique portrait of your family pet.” The book then includes a photo gallery with full-page color portraits of each dog in a home environment. The next section is the patterns, which includes ten different breeds (Dachshund, Border Terrier, French Bulldog, Labrador, Chihuahua, Dalmatian, Spaniel, Yorkshire Terrier (shared as a pattern below this review), German Shepherd, and Poodle. Each pattern includes a short introduction, a list of materials, size of the finished project and tension (gauge). Method explains how the project is constructed and then the patterns are provided in sections using both UK pattern abbreviations and international stitch symbol charts. At the end of each pattern, the Making Up section explains how to join pieces and embellish the finished dog. All patterns are made in DK/#3/light weight yarns with a finished size from 5.25” to 10.625” (13.5 cm to 27 cm) tall. Within each pattern, you’ll find multiple images of the dog from different angles against a white background.

Fifteen pages of back sections following the patterns include Getting Started, Basic Stitches, Finishing Touches, Abbreviations and Conversions, and Supplies. These sections includes written information about crochet hooks, yarn needles, yarn substitution, reading crochet charts, stuffing and sewing pieces together,. There are written and illustrated instructions for getting gauge (tension), basic crochet stitches, increasing, decreasing, crocheting into the front or back loops, joining colors, joining pieces with back stitch or whip stitch, two embroidery stitches (straight stitch and satin stitch), tassels, and special instructions for the Spaniel’s muzzle markings. There is also a glossary of pattern abbreviations, conversions from UK to US terms and measurements for hooks, and contact information for suppliers of yarn, hooks, stuffing, and embroidery thread. The book closes with an index.

Although it’s a paperback book, there are front and back flaps to help you keep your place while stitching. The dog patterns are very cute and the photos are adorable and fun. While most patterns use basic stitches, they are quite detailed so I would recommend the book to advanced beginner crocheters rather than those just learning to stitch (unless those newbies LOVE dogs and have a good amount of patience). Most US readers would probably make the patterns with medium (worsted/#4/aran) yarn, and that would make the finished projects larger and more huggable. If you are a dog lover, or have dog lovers in your circle of “crochet-worthy” gift recipients, you will definitely enjoy Crocheted Dogs (available through independent booksellers or here on Amazon)!

Yorkshire Terrier

Crochet Yorkie Pattern by Vanessa Mooncie

Published in Crocheted Dogs (available through independent booksellers or here on Amazon). Text © Vanessa Mooncie, 2020. Copyright in the Work © GMC Publications Ltd, 2020. Shared with permission from GMC Publications Ltd.

Add this crochet Yorkie pattern to your Ravelry queue or favorites here.

The Yorkshire Terrier’s long coat is formed by adding tassels to the head, neck, body and tops of the legs. The strands of yarn are trimmed to neaten and can be cut to any length desired.

Materials

  • King Cole Bamboo Cotton DK, 50% bamboo viscose, 50% cotton (252yd/230m per 100g ball), or any DK yarn:
    • 1 x 100g ball in 3330 Truffle (A)
    • 1 x 100g ball in 534 Black (B)
  • 3.25mm (UK10:USD/3) crochet hook
  • Blunt-ended yarn needle
  • Toy stuffing

Size

  • Approximately 7.5in (19cm) body length from tip of nose to back of hind legs
  • Approximately 6.75in (17cm) tall from top of head (excluding ears)

Tension

  • 22 sts and 24 rows to 4in (10cm) over double crochet using 3.25mm hook and yarn A. Use larger or smaller hook if necessary to obtain correct tension.

Notes from Underground Crafter

Key

  • Magic loop
  • Chain (ch)
  • Slip stitch (sl st)
  • Double crochet (dc)
  • dc2inc
  • dc2tog
  • loop stitch (lp st)
  • Make bobble (mb)

Method

  • The Yorkshire Terrier’s head, body and legs are worked in continuous rounds of double crochet. The muzzle, head and neck are worked in one piece. The ears and tail are crocheted in rows. Each ear is made up of two crocheted parts that are joined by crocheting into each stitch of both pieces at the same time.
  • The long edges of the tail are sewn together and a small amount of stuffing is inserted before sewing it in place. The loop stitches on the tail are cut through. The toes on the paws are produced by crocheting bobbles. These appear on the reverse side of the fabric, so the work is turned before continuing with the leg. Lengths of yarn are attached to the posts of the stitches to form the long coat. The eyes and nose are embroidered with yarn in satin stitch.
  • 1 ch at beg of the row/round does not count as a st throughout.

Head

  • Starting at front of muzzle, with 3.25mm hook and A, make a magic loop (see Techniques at end of pattern).
  • Round 1: 1 ch, 6 dc into loop (6 sts).
  • Round 2 (inc): (Dc2inc) 6 times (12 sts). Pull tightly on short end of yarn to close loop.
  • Rounds 3–4: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 5 (inc): (Dc2inc, 3 dc) 3 times (15 sts).
  • Round 6: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 7 (inc): (Dc2inc, 4 dc) 3 times (18 sts).
  • Round 8 (inc): 1 dc in next dc, (dc2inc, 1 dc) 6 times, 1 dc in next 5 dc (24 sts).
  • Round 9 (inc): 1 dc in next 3 dc, (dc2inc, 2 dc) 5 times, 1 dc in next dc, finishing 5 sts before the end, turn (29 sts).

Top of head

  • Row 1 (WS): 1 ch, 1 dc in next 24 dc, turn.
  • Continue on these 24 sts.
  • Rows 2–5: 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc, turn. Place a marker in the centre of row 5.
  • Row 6 (WS) (dec): 1 ch, (dc2tog, 2 dc) 6 times, turn (18 sts).
  • Row 7 (dec): 1 ch, (dc2tog, 1 dc) 6 times, turn (12 sts).
  • Row 8 (dec): 1 ch, (dc2tog) 6 times (6 sts).
  • Break yarn and thread through last 6 stitches. Pull tightly on end of yarn. Fasten off.

Neck

  • With RS of head facing, 3.25mm hook and A, sl st in first of unworked 5 dc of round 9 of head.
  • Round 1: 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in next 4 dc, work 14 dc evenly along edge of the rows of head (19 sts).
  • Rounds 2–4: Dc in each dc.
  • Round 5: (Dc2inc, 1 dc) 4 times, 1 dc in next 11 dc (23 sts).
  • Round 6: Dc in each dc.
  • Round 7: 1 dc in next 13 dc. Sl st in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn at the end.

Ears (make 2)

  • With 3.25mm hook and A, make 5 ch.
  • Row 1: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in next 2 ch, 3 dc in next ch, 1 dc in reverse side of next 3 ch, turn (9 sts).
  • Row 2 (inc): 1 ch, dc2inc, 1 dc in next 3 dc, 3 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 3 dc, dc2inc (13 sts). Fasten off.
  • Make one more piece to match the first. Turn work at the end and do not fasten off.

Join ear pieces

  • Place the two ear pieces together.
  • Next: 1 ch, inserting the hook under both loops of each stitch of both pieces at the same time to join, 1 dc in next 6 dc, 3 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 6 dc (15 sts). Fasten off, leaving a long length of yarn at the end.

Body

  • Starting at front of body, with 3.25mm hook and A, make 10 ch.
  • Round 1: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in next 7 ch, 2 dc in end ch, 1 dc in reverse side of next 8 ch. Place a marker on the first stitch to mark the top of the front of the body (18 sts).
  • Round 2 (inc): (Dc2inc, 2 dc) 6 times (24 sts).
  • Round 3 (inc): (Dc2inc, 3 dc) 6 times (30 sts).
  • Round 4 (inc): (Dc2inc, 4 dc) 6 times (36 sts).
  • Rounds 5–7: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Join B in last dc.
  • Continue with B.
  • Rounds 8–15: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 16 (dec): (Dc2tog, 4 dc) 6 times (30 sts).
  • Rounds 17–22: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 23 (dec): (Dc2tog, 3 dc) 6 times (24 sts).

For Rounds 1-4, follow chart for Labrador body below.

  • Rounds 24–31: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Stuff body before continuing.
  • Round 32 (dec): (Dc2tog, 2 dc) 6 times (18 sts).
  • Round 33 (dec): (Dc2tog, 1 dc) 6 times (12 sts).
  • Round 34 (dec): (Dc2tog) 6 times (6 sts).
  • Break yarn and thread through last 6 stitches. Pull tightly on end of yarn to close. Fasten off.

Front legs (make 2)

  • The bobbles appear on the reverse side of the work. This will be the right side. See Techniques below for instructions to make bobble (mb). Starting at the base of the paw, with 3.25mm hook and A, make a magic loop.
  • Round 1 (WS): 1 ch, 6 dc into loop (6 sts).
  • Round 2 (inc): (Dc2inc) 6 times (12 sts). Pull tightly on short end of yarn to close loop.
  • Round 3 (inc): (Dc2inc, 2 dc) 4 times (16 sts).
  • Round 4: 1 dc in next 8 dc, (mb, 1 dc in next dc) 4 times, turn.
  • Round 5 (RS) (dec): 1 ch, 1 dc in first dc, (1 dc in next st, dc2tog) twice, 1 dc in next 9 dc (14 sts).
  • Round 6 (dec): (1 dc in next dc, dc2tog) twice, 1 dc in next 8 dc (12 sts).
  • Rounds 7–17: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 18 (inc): (Dc2inc, 3 dc) 3 times (15 sts).
  • Rounds 19–23: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Stuff leg before continuing.
  • Round 24 (dec): (Dc2tog, 1 dc) 5 times (10 sts).
  • Round 25 (dec): (Dc2tog) 5 times (5 sts).
  • Break yarn and thread through last round of stitches. Pull tightly on end of yarn to close. Fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn at the end.

Hind legs (make 2)

  • Starting at the base of the paw, with 3.25mm hook and A, make a magic loop.
  • Rounds 1–12: Work as for rounds 1–12 of front legs.

Shape back of leg

  • Round 13: 1 dc in next dc, ending at the side of the leg; 6 ch, skip the 6 dc at the front of the leg, 1 dc in next 5 dc.
  • Round 14: 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next 6 ch, 1 dc in next 5 dc.
  • Break yarn and thread through last round of stitches. Pull tightly on end of yarn to close and fasten off.

Shape thigh

  • With RS of leg facing, 3.25mm hook and B, sl st in first of skipped 6 dc of round 13.
  • Round 1: 1 dc in same st as sl st, 1 dc in next 5 dc, 1 dc in reverse side of next 6 ch (12 sts).
  • Round 2: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 3 (inc): (Dc2inc, 3 dc) 3 times (15 sts).
  • Rounds 4–5: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 6 (inc): (Dc2inc, 4 dc) 3 times (18 sts).
  • Rounds 7–8: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 9 (inc): (Dc2inc, 5 dc) 3 times (21 sts).
  • Rounds 10–11: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Round 12 (inc): (Dc2inc, 6 dc) 3 times (24 sts).
  • Rounds 13–14: 1 dc in each dc.
  • Stuff leg before continuing.
  • Round 15 (dec): (Dc2tog, 2 dc) 6 times (18 sts).
  • Round 16 (dec): (Dc2tog, 1 dc) 6 times (12 sts).
  • Round 17 (dec): (Dc2tog) 6 times (6 sts).
  • Break yarn and thread through last round of stitches. Pull tightly on end of yarn to close. Fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn at the end.

Tail

  • With 3.25mm hook and B, make 15 ch. See Techniques below for instructions on loop stitch (lp st).
  • Row 1: 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 dc in next 13 ch, turn (14 sts).
  • Row 2: 1 ch, 1 dc in next dc, 1 lp st in next 12 dc, 1 dc in next dc, turn.
  • Row 3: 1 ch, 1 dc in each dc, turn.
  • Row 4: Rep row 2.
  • Fasten off, leaving a long tail of yarn at the end.

Making up

Head

  • Stuff the head. With the tail of yarn left after fastening off, sew the head in place, indicated by the marker at the top of the body. Stitch all around the neck edges and insert more stuffing into the neck, if necessary. With yarn B, embroider the eyes and nose in satin stitch (see Techniques below).

Ears

  • Turn under one corner of each ear and stitch to the centre of the ear, at the lower edge. Sew the ears in place, near the back of the head, stitching all around the lower edges.

Legs

  • Flatten the top of the legs and sew in position, stitching all around the tops of the thighs.

Tail

  • Weave the length of yarn left after fastening off through the stitches at the narrow end and pull tightly to gather up the end of the tail. Fold the tail lengthways and sew the long edges together with whip stitch (see Techniques below). Use the end of the crochet hook to push a small amount of stuffing into the tail.
  • Sew the tail in place. Cut through the loops.

Long coat

  • The long coat is made by adding tassels (see Techniques below) that are threaded through the posts of the stitches. Use a single 9.5in (24cm) length of yarn A or B for each tassel. Attach the tassels to the posts of the stitches around the head, neck, body and tops of the legs. Trim the ends to the desired length. Tie together a group of tassels above the eyes into a topknot. Weave in all the yarn ends.

Techniques

Magic Loop

  • Many of the crocheted pieces start with an adjustable loop of yarn. To make the loop, wind the yarn around a finger, insert the hook, catch the yarn and draw back through the loop. After a couple of rounds have been crocheted, covering the loop of yarn, the short end of yarn is pulled tight to close the centre. An alternative method is to make four chain stitches and then slip stitch to the first chain to form a ring. However, this technique does leave a hole in the middle.

Make bobble (mb)

  • This stitch is used to create the toes on the dogs’ paws. The bobbles appear on the reverse side of the work. This will be the right side.
  • 1–2 Follow steps 1–2 of treble stitch.
  • 1 Yrh, insert hook into the next stitch, yrh and draw back through the stitch (three loops on hook).
  • 2 Yrh, draw through two loops (two loops on hook).
  • 3 *Yrh, insert hook into same st, yrh and draw back through stitch (four loops on hook), yrh and draw through two loops (three loops on hook)*; rep from * to * (four loops on hook) yrh, draw through all four loops (one loop on hook). This forms one bobble.

Loop stitch (lp st)

  • The loops appear on the reverse side of the work. This will be the right side. This method is used to create the ears and feathered coat of the Spaniel on pages 93–4. The same stitch is used on the Yorkshire Terrier’s tail on page 109. The loops are cut, producing single strands of yarn to form the long hair on the tail. Insert hook into next dc, with yarn wrapped around the finger of the yarn hand (see ‘Holding the work’, below), from front to back. Catch the strand at the back of the finger and the strand at the front at the same time, and draw both strands of yarn through the stitch (three loops on hook). Slip loop off finger, yrh and draw through all three loops on hook.

Holding the work

  • To hold your work and control the tension, pass the yarn over the first two fingers of your left hand (right if you are left-handed), under the third finger and around the little finger, and let the yarn fall loosely to the ball. As you work, take the stitch you made between the thumb and forefinger of the same hand. The hook is usually inserted through the top two loops of a stitch as you work, unless otherwise stated in a pattern. A different effect is produced when only the back or front loop of the stitch is picked up.

Satin stitch

  • Work straight stitches side by side and close together across a shape. Take care to keep the stitches even and the edge neat. The finished result will look like satin.

Whip stitch

  • Whip stitch is used to sew together the edges of most of the dogs’ tails. Thread the tail of yarn left after fastening off onto a blunt-ended yarn needle. With wrong sides of the tail together, insert the needle from back to front through a stitch on both sides at the same time and draw the yarn through the stitch. Insert the needle through the next stitch on both sides from back to front as before and continue to the end. The yarn will be wrapped around the edges, joining the two sides.

Tassels

  • Tassels are used to create the long coat of the Yorkshire Terrier (see page 109) and the whiskers on the Border Terrier (see page 39). The strands of yarn can be trimmed to style.
  • To attach the tassel, fold the length of yarn in half to form a loop.
  • 1 Insert the crochet hook behind the post of the stitch and back out through to the front. Catch the looped yarn and pull it a little way through.
  • 2 Remove the hook and thread the ends of the yarn back through the loop, pulling them tight. This completes one tassel.

I hope you enjoyed this crochet Yorkie pattern excerpt and book review! You can read all of my book reviews here.

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